Eighty Posted December 16, 2015 Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 I am looking at a new 2200 TRS with a hardtop. I have a few questions: 1. Is a 150 enough motor with a hardtop? I don't need a +50mph boat, but, I don't want it to be a struggle bus either. 2. Would it make any difference to go with VF150LA instead of the F150XB? My little brain says 150 is 150.. but, I don't have any experience with either motor. 3. Hinges - would PF/Factory allow a swap out of hinges and go with GEM friction hinges where it makes sense? Thanks for the help and guidance! My sales rep thanks you more! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linesider 159 Posted December 16, 2015 Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 A 150 being enough depends on your wants. Resale goes down, but so does purchase price. If i didnt care about speed, i would bump up to the 200 SHO. The torque and power difference is m***ive over the f150 and you will never worry/struggle to plane off if you are heavy loaded. I dont think resale would be hurt with a 200 either. I dont think ive ever heard someone say they wish they had less power, but plenty have said they want more power. 4 people, full gear and fuel, ttop, and that f150 is working hard. Given choice between vf150 for f150, id stick with regular f150. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fin-addict Posted December 16, 2015 Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 agree with the 200 SHO. why the f150 over the vf150. just a question. thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linesider 159 Posted December 16, 2015 Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 In the 150 cl*** i dont see it being a large difference in performance from the f150. the 200, 225, and 250 sho are completely different from the regular 200,225,and 250 yamaha 4 strokes. The big SHO's have different exhaust, midsections, trim and tilt brackets that are lighter, low water pickup, high performance lower unit, etc. The 250 sho is lighter than the regular 250, while the 150 sho is the same weight as the regular 150. I also figured if you were to spend extra bucks on a sho it would probably be better spent on just upgrading to a 200 SHO. Thats just my reasoning, maybe others are different. On a boat rated for 150 then it would probably make more sense if you wanted marginally better performance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headhunter Posted December 16, 2015 Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 Some really good comments here. We run a 200sho on our TE. It's a nice set up. Runs 50+ with no top and burns 87 octane gas. We can't be more pleased. Interesting question on the hinges. There was a thread on that as well. I looked on the GemLux website and it said 'retooling required" but you need to ask the question. Different bolt pattern. Good luck with your purchase. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fin-addict Posted December 16, 2015 Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 thank you 159 for your reasoning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eighty Posted December 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 Some really good comments here.Interesting question on the hinges. There was a thread on that as well. I looked on the GemLux website and it said 'retooling required" but you need to ask the question. Different bolt pattern. Good luck with your purchase. Thanks everyone for the feedback so far. I am hoping Skip will respond to the hinge question since I would be providing at the factory level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamaskeet Posted December 17, 2015 Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 If you are going to a SHO motor, go with the 250. The 200 and 225 are just detuned 250's. All of them produce 250 hp until the engine reaches 4500 rpm, then only the 250 keeps producing hp. It's very hard to prop an engine that the ECM is limiting hp at over 4500 rpm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCFD rtrd. Posted December 17, 2015 Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 If you are going to a SHO motor, go with the 250.The 200 and 225 are just detuned 250's. All of them produce 250 hp until the engine reaches 4500 rpm, then only the 250 keeps producing hp. It's very hard to prop an engine that the ECM is limiting hp at over 4500 rpm. I know there is a difference in the initial cost of motors, depending on horsepower and this may be a factor in your new purchase, but if you go with a 250 SHO, you'll get your money back when you resell or trade in. Additionally, your gas mileage may be about the same (comparing a 150 to a 250) because the 250 will accomplish everything the 150 will, without straining. You might want to research the performance bulletins to make a fair comparison about mileage. Just something else to think about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linesider 159 Posted December 17, 2015 Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 If you are going to a SHO motor, go with the 250.The 200 and 225 are just detuned 250's. All of them produce 250 hp until the engine reaches 4500 rpm, then only the 250 keeps producing hp. It's very hard to prop an engine that the ECM is limiting hp at over 4500 rpm. The 200 is cost effective for some who dont care about speed. Propping a 200 sho vs a 250 sho isnt much different, and i wouldnt think would add much complication. You can also run 87 on the 200 sho, vs 89 on the 225 and 250. The 200, 225, 250, and the 300 hpdi all shared the same block, and the ecu change was all it took to pick your hp. I dont remember others having issues propping the hpdis. The concept of limiting hp using the same block is identical between the hpdi and the sho. Mercury does the same thing with the verado 225-300. I dont think there is much issue propping them, but i havent owned a 200 sho. Ive only owned a 225 and a 250 sho Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eighty Posted December 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2015 Thanks everyone for the help so far on the engine. I never heard from anyone from MBC/PF about the possibility to provide the friction hinges in place of what they install at the factory and have them installed when the boat is built. So, I will take that as a no. :confused: I am looking at a new 2200 TRS with a hardtop. I have a few questions:3. Hinges - would PF/Factory allow a swap out of hinges and go with GEM friction hinges where it makes sense? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linesider 159 Posted December 18, 2015 Report Share Posted December 18, 2015 Did you try calling the factory for that answer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCFD rtrd. Posted December 18, 2015 Report Share Posted December 18, 2015 Did you try calling the factory for that answer? Yes, call the factory and talk to Ray Ayres at ext. 103. Ray is a great guy and will find a answer for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slyshon Posted December 18, 2015 Report Share Posted December 18, 2015 We do not offer the friction latches... Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCFD rtrd. Posted December 19, 2015 Report Share Posted December 19, 2015 I know the friction hinges are attractive to lots of guys, especially on the live-well lid and most especially if you dump your cast net directly into the live-well. For those with the standard factory installed "gas-shocks", here's a tip. Spray the whole apparatus including the mounts with Corrosion-X (red can). They are subject to corrosion, especially where the shock connects to the mounts and the little wire pin that secures the shock to the mount. I had a problem with corrosion on all my shocks after only about 18 months. It sort of sneaked up on me, out of sight-out of mind. I used a rotary took and a wire wheel the clean all the parts and had to replace most of the little wire clips. Sprayed with Corrosion-X and no corrosion problems since that time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eighty Posted December 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2015 A follow question... Looking at the 2200 TRS build sheet, it looks like the F150XB and F200XB is a 25" shaft. The SHO's VF150LA & VF200LA is a 20" shaft. So, is the ***umption the SHO's require the $1,750 jackplate as well to make up for the shorter shaft? If this is true, I wonder why the VF175 isn't an option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headhunter Posted December 26, 2015 Report Share Posted December 26, 2015 Yup, the sho needs the jack plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linesider 159 Posted December 30, 2015 Report Share Posted December 30, 2015 Yes and no. The sho comes in a 25 inch model as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headhunter Posted December 30, 2015 Report Share Posted December 30, 2015 Only the 250hp model. All the others are 20 inch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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