hooked Posted December 6, 2015 Report Share Posted December 6, 2015 My bilge pump works with switch but not with the automatic float. I ***ume the float is a part of the pump. (Can barely see the pump) I can just reach it thru the pie hole. Should I just try to pop it out of the mounting bracket? I didn't really feel any tabs to release it and I don't want to break the mount in case I can get the exact replacement. Any tips from anyone that makes this job easier? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fin-addict Posted December 6, 2015 Report Share Posted December 6, 2015 a lot of guys replace the pie hole with a 11x17 hatch before doing the job. there may be tabs to push in or pull out to release pump from bracket. what size and make is the pump. you can then look it up to see how to disconnect the pump. more than likely a rule or sahara. tis not any easy job working in that space, brother just had his done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dominion Posted December 6, 2015 Report Share Posted December 6, 2015 Power for the automatic function is fed directly from the battery. Connection is at the battery switch and goes thru a small circuit breaker, (a rubber covered stand alone unit near the battery switch). The breaker has a very small reset button and usually can be reset. It is always good to replace the pump anyway if it has a few years on it. The reach down into the bilge is do-able but not easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rckeat Posted December 6, 2015 Report Share Posted December 6, 2015 My boat is a few years older than yours and I had to replace my bilge pump when it failed. Mine was the rectangular kind by Rule (1100 gph model) that snaps into a strainer basket that is screwed down to a piece of starboard that is affixed to the bottom of the boat. The pump snaps into the basket and is held in place by 2 plastic tabs - one on each side. Here's the trouble. Rule changed that model a few years ago and the new pump has a different basket than the old one. So on mine at least, I had to remove the old basket held down by 4 screws and screw the new basket down blind. The only good news is that the screw holes are in the same configuration on both baskets. I was able to do it without replacing the pie hole but lots of cussing was involved. The job will be easier if you replace the pie hole. If you choose to do it like I did, get 3 toothpicks and use these to align the screw holes and the basket. You can then screw a screw down, and you can get a second screw started easier by then removing a toothpick. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooked Posted December 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2015 Thanks for the responses. I will try to find the breaker by the switch. Also thanks for the tip on the toothpicks. Very resourceful. Hopefully it's the breaker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smilemaker Posted December 7, 2015 Report Share Posted December 7, 2015 The 2200 TE cannot have the access cover changed like the 2200v The original pump as stated is no longer made so the basket will need to be changed. sometimes removing the pump from the strainer and cleaning the automatic switch will buy some time but when you look at the age replacing it is the safest thing to do. It is all pretty much a feel thing . Pinch the tabs on the side and the pump will come off or if you just get one you can rotate and wiggle it loose. The basket is screwed to a pvc board bonded to the hull. Use a small screw gun or cordless drill to remove the screws. When placing new basket be sure you are going into the pvc board and not the hull bottom. If your knuckles are not bloody when you get done you can brag about being the first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodWorks Posted December 7, 2015 Report Share Posted December 7, 2015 Thanks for the responses. I will try to find the breaker by the switch. Also thanks for the tip on the toothpicks. Very resourceful. Hopefully it's the breaker. You may also have just an inline fuse, instead of a breaker, on the wire leading directly to the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooked Posted December 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2015 Thank you. I found it. It was indeed an inline fuse near the battery switch. Even though it was covered and full of dielectric grease, the stakes on the fuse itself and the holder finally got enough corrosion to go bad. When I wiggle the fuse in the holder the pump will activate. Off to get a new fuse holder. I'm 63 so I will leave the pump change out (its old) to one of my sons when they come down to visit. Windy day project. Better their knuckles than mine! Thanks to everyone for their help. I've owned this boat since new and I still love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodWorks Posted December 8, 2015 Report Share Posted December 8, 2015 :thumbup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
localangler Posted December 24, 2015 Report Share Posted December 24, 2015 Is this the breaker? If so where's the reset? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCFD rtrd. Posted December 25, 2015 Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 Some pumps don't have external release tabs that can be felt. Mine has two buttons, one on either side that are flush with the pump housing. You got to use a light and mirror to locate them, then just squeeze to release the pump housing from the mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dominion Posted December 25, 2015 Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 localangler, Pull off the red rubber front. You should be able to see a very small, micro switch button. It's just a reset like a GFI outlet in a house. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
localangler Posted December 25, 2015 Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 Dominion, Thanks I wasn't sure if that was it but it is in rough shape. I'm still not sure if it goes to my bilge pump but now I will try to check power with the volt meter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dominion Posted December 25, 2015 Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 localangler, With yours being a TE that compartment has a lot of exposure to salt corrosion due to the livewell pumps and that it is open to the bilge area. The corrosion effect makes changing breaker to a new one practical as a matter of course. You could change to a fuse in a water resistant housing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toates Posted January 6, 2016 Report Share Posted January 6, 2016 I was able to change mine. It was a huge PITA but I was able to do it without cutting any access. I took pictures like this one to help get me straight. The holes on the old and new basket style line up perfectly. I ended up doing the job by touch alone. Taped the screws to the screw driver because I could only get one hand far enough in there to work it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seabreeze1 Posted November 24, 2017 Report Share Posted November 24, 2017 How did Pathfinder/ Maverick ever expect someone to replace the bilge pump in these boats? My 2014 2200 TE would be an absolute nightmare to do....which I'm getting ready to face very shortly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamaskeet Posted November 24, 2017 Report Share Posted November 24, 2017 You are luck that you don't have to hunt the old style pump. I've changed that pump in a number of boats and it's not as bad as it seems. But practice makes it easier. Other than the obvious, my only suggest is to use a 1/4" ratchet to remove the clamp on the outlet hose not a screwdriver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seabreeze1 Posted November 26, 2017 Report Share Posted November 26, 2017 The only access I have is through the rear access hatch below the motor on top of the transom...the pump is underneath 3 straight bronze thru-hull fittings. My fingers barely reach the top of the pump with my shoulder as far in as I can fit... I bought the same pump to replace it with so I can use the same mounting holes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewater report Posted January 24, 2018 Report Share Posted January 24, 2018 Hey guys, I’m looking to replace my bulge pump. Can anyone tell me the model number of the pump that will best screw into the existing holes. I have a 2005 2200v. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang190 Posted January 25, 2018 Report Share Posted January 25, 2018 I have a 2014 22’ TE also. Looking at it I think I would just install a access hatch or a pie hole in the deck up against the bulkhead of the bait well?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamaskeet Posted January 25, 2018 Report Share Posted January 25, 2018 14 hours ago, Bluewater report said: Hey guys, I’m looking to replace my bulge pump. Can anyone tell me the model number of the pump that will best screw into the existing holes. I have a 2005 2200v. thanks My 2005 2000V had the old style Rule 1100 pump. You should be able to see it with a flash light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodWorks Posted February 24, 2018 Report Share Posted February 24, 2018 Just FYI, the old rulematic bilge pump baskets have the same hole pattern as the new ones. This makes the job much easier than people think since you can use the same holes and screws from the original. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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