Wanaflatsfish Posted August 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2019 A FEW MORE PICS.... I USE 5200 ON THE BILGE CRIMPS THEN OVER LAY RUBBER AND HEAT SHRINK MY OLD IGNITION SYSTEM.... REPLACED IT OUT... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JakeK Posted August 29, 2019 Report Share Posted August 29, 2019 awesome work and thanks for the documentation! For what it's worth, there are a series of marine wire crimps that have a layer of hot glue on the inside of the shrink tube. The hot glue melts as you shrink the shrink and it seals it up really tight. I normally detest wire crimp connections but these I can stomach. Also, in the case of my stern underwater lights, the PO had attached them to an open buss bar attached to the inside of the stern....imagine how that had almost corroded away in a few years :-). To replace that buss bar, I had to run several wires into one end of a single crimp. I probably wouldn't do it this way if it was some type of critical system but lights, meh....no problem. To help seal those up, I put the wires in, crimped it, flooded the inside of the shrink tubes with hot glue, and shrank it down using a heat gun. It took a while for the heat to get through all the glue but it sure looks great and water tight when done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nag Juice Posted August 29, 2019 Report Share Posted August 29, 2019 I know this is late and probably not applicable now but with the Gorilla Tape it can grab stuff when you’re running it. (Ask me how I know) I found that dish soap on the outside of the tape with make the pull easier. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted August 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2019 14 hours ago, Nag Juice said: I know this is late and probably not applicable now but with the Gorilla Tape it can grab stuff when you’re running it. (Ask me how I know) I found that dish soap on the outside of the tape with make the pull easier. Good luck Nag, You are correct....I use Dawn whenever I'm running anything along the bilge chase and through the console. I just didn't document that piece of the work..... dc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted August 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2019 15 hours ago, JakeK said: inside of the shrink tubes with hot glue, interesting concept..... BTW, I use the the glue filled crimps that are heat activate and i feel they are fine for above the bilge....anything in the bilge, like bilge pump etc, I want it to be double sure..thus my use of 5200 with overshrink of tubes...i use the same process for the trailer...yep messy, but, works... DC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdsnook Posted September 1, 2019 Report Share Posted September 1, 2019 Nice work Dino! Us old guys can still get it done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smilemaker Posted September 1, 2019 Report Share Posted September 1, 2019 My standard crimp is to use a shrink style butt joint cover it with liquid tape/plastic and place a shrink wrap tube over it right away. You can watch the liquid tape ooze out and seal the entire crimp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CG RYAN Posted September 2, 2019 Report Share Posted September 2, 2019 On 8/30/2019 at 6:35 AM, Wanaflatsfish said: interesting concept..... BTW, I use the the glue filled crimps that are heat activate and i feel they are fine for above the bilge....anything in the bilge, like bilge pump etc, I want it to be double sure..thus my use of 5200 with overshrink of tubes...i use the same process for the trailer...yep messy, but, works... DC Lookin good Dino. I may try some 5200 on my trailer lights when I redo them soon. I used outdoor extension cords up to a waterproof junction box a couple boats ago and it worked out great for the entire time I had it. I just sold my 2400 that had immaculate wiring and see some new wiring projects in my future on the new rig. I am beginning to think I am a glutton for punishment kinda like you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanaflatsfish Posted September 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2019 23 hours ago, smilemaker said: My standard crimp is to use a shrink style butt joint cover it with liquid tape/plastic and place a shrink wrap tube over it right away. You can watch the liquid tape ooze out and seal the entire crimp I use this system for anything in the bilge....or when I'm in a rush.......but, when I 'm doing a "redo" i use the 5200...for the trailer, which i know will spend 10-15 min the water, I use the 5200 for sure..... Again, I think all the techniques are good, so long as you give it some extra protection for the environment the crimp will be placed... dc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyBottomBluz Posted September 4, 2019 Report Share Posted September 4, 2019 Just an FYI that I learned on this site many moon's ago was using extension cords for running trailer lights. It is protected and waterproof, except obviously where the connections are made and can be picked up for cheap at places like Harbor Freight or even some dollar stores. Used it on my old Redfisher trailer and in 6 years before I sold it never an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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