Jump to content

SCFD rtrd.

Members
  • Content count

    1,025
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

About SCFD rtrd.

  • Rank
    Live Baiter

Converted

  • Gender
    male
  • Occupation
    Retired Fire Dept.
  • Interests
    Fishing and Building stuff
  • Location
    Maitland / Englewood, Fl.
  • Full Name
    Steve Hiers

Recent Profile Visitors

1,581 profile views
  1. Live Well Problem

    It's possible the live-well is equipped with a timer that would account for periods of no water entering the well, however the pump should come on when the switch is first turned on, then start cycling at a predetermined cycle. More than likely you have an air lock that accounts for the fact that the pump will not pump water when you first put the boat in the water. Some pumps are better than others at overcoming air-lock. The easiest route is to reconfigure the plumbing and pumps so they are at or below water level. If your pumps are oriented in the vertical position, it's possible they are too high above the water level to achieve a draft and start pumping water. You might need to add a 90 degree elbow to the intake pipe, below the pumps. This would orient the pumps in the horizontal position and probably at or below water level. I had to do this to my boat for the same reasons. Never had a problem after I lowered the pumps.
  2. O.A. Length of 2300 HPS on Breakaway Trailer

    My rig is down at the condo right now so I can't measure, but if I remember correctly the total length of folding tongue trailer, boat, jack plate and 250 is 27 ft. - 4 in. on Ameritrail trailer. When I swing the trailer tongue back, the tip of the bow is exactly in the same plane as the trailer. The 23 hps is exactly 24 ft. long from tip of bow to end of transom. So, if you could find the dimensions of the jack plate and the Yamaha 250, then add 24 ft. to that, you would have the total length. If you are ordering a trailer from Ameritrail, have them install the winch behind the knuckle/hinge not in front of it. The knuckle is not designed to handle the torque of the winch and the pressures exerted by trailering. Google any company that makes the knuckle or hinge and read the instillation instructions.
  3. Best Battery Charger?

    Went through two onboard chargers in my 2013 boat, one Guest and one other brand. Switched to Powermania because they have an internal fan to keep the unit cool.
  4. What did you do to your boat today?

    Brad's not scared to cut holes in his brand new boat. Looks good buddy. I like the changes to the console (steering wheel on the left). That was my only gripe about my 2013 (steering wheel in the center), makes it awkward to seat two people on the leaning post.
  5. Loose wiring & mystery noises

    Those little gizmos that Hurricane referred to are excellent, I use them all over my boat. The trick is to clean the area with alcohol or acetone, then apply a small dab of super glue in the center of the gizmo. Some of mine have been in place since 2013.
  6. New Boat

    Congratulations Brad, you're going to love that boat. Nice choice of colors.
  7. Just Arrived: Battery Tamer-Saw on Ship Shape

    What if your batteries have the threaded terminals with bolts to secure the wires? Can you just tighten the nut down on the copper plate?
  8. New to me first maverick

    Congratulations on the new rig. It's nice to see your rig on a duel axle trailer. You won't be sorry about having the extra axle and tires. Shine that bad-boy up and send some pics.
  9. Perko battery switch question

    Initially I was thinking battery switch, but after rereading the thing about switching for 1 to 2 and back to 1, I'm leaning toward a bad connection. When you apply 12 volt power to anything in your boat and the connection is less than good, the wire and connection will start to heat up. Eventually as the heat continues, the bad connection will swell and start to make a better connection, then things start working as normal. I'd start looking at the large battery wires from the battery to the switch to the motor. Don't forget about the grounds, same theory applies to negative wires as well.
  10. Perko battery switch question

    My opinion is that the problem with most battery switches is that they are installed, then the battery leads are connected. When torqueing the battery leads, the plastic switch actually fractures. It's only held together with 3 or 4 small screws that thread into plastic. Try this method; disassemble the switch in basically two parts (front and back). Attach the battery leads to the back while holding the rear half in your hand. This will allow you to torque the bolts sufficiently without breaking anything. Then working from both sides, reassemble the switch. It's important to support the battery leads with some wire ties or wire clamps. The battery leads are heavy and put additional stress on the switch, which in time will cause structural problems with the switch. Just saying.
  11. Removing gunnel rails on 2200v

    Is there any access at all? How many bolts hold the railing on and how long is the railing? If you have just one access point, my suggestion is to use a bore scope to locate the bolts, then fashion a long handle and attach it to a wrench. Cut the railing on both sides of the vertical part of the railing, then just hold the wrench and spin the railing. You'll still have to deal with some holes in the gunnel, but they will only be about 3/8". Bore scopes are not expensive and you can buy just the camera and cord/cable, then plug the cord into your phone to see whatever the camera sees.
  12. MA 21 Bimini top

    Got an idea for you. buy some 3/4' pvc and fashion it to look like the aluminum bows on a Bimini top. Start with 70" tall and 90" wide. You only need two for this experiment. You also need the length dimension from someone (how far front to back it spans). Attach string to the radius's of the pvc to help you keep the approx. length and angle of the bows. Then with help move the bows around the boat to different locations to simulate shading the console, bow and stern areas. Then try to find a location to store the top when not in use. Some can be stored in the upright position, leaning back at about 45 degrees. If you want it on the deck, find a place that won't obstruct hatches. You'll also have to determine a place to secure the top while trailering. Then determine how to attach the top to the boat. Accon hardware has several different options. I personally don't like mounting inside the gunnel, cuts down on walking room. You'll need additional hardware if you want to move the top from bow to stern to accommodate passengers that want shade. If you get a top too short in height, you won't be able to use your vertical rod storage. If it's too tall, then it has a tendency to sway side to side, but you can attach straps to the windshield grab bar to stop the swaying. You can also have zippered slots in the top for the rod tips to extend through. The PVC will help you plan before you buy. Also, a good canvas person should have lots of ideas about height, length, width and mounting locations.
  13. VF250 SHO overheat alarm

    Good point, but these factory rigged boats are probable not considered performance boats. The best example would be to look at the performance ratings of that hull on the Pathfinder web-site. The rating should show prop, and jack-plate height at maximum RPM and speed.
  14. Stepped hull lift

    Good luck, please send some pics of the new bunk arrangement.
  15. Stepped hull lift

    Wow, I would have that fixed pretty quick. You have a lot of weight resting on two small areas. I'm about to go through the same thing, but will be on hand to supervise the modifications. You might be able to solve the problem by adding some material to the front of the bunks (near the bow). If you add height to the front of the bunks, that will lower the hull at the stern. This modification is something you just can't eyeball or use a scientific guess. Someone actually needs to get in the water and add material, such as 2x4" and wedges to certain areas between the bunks and hull until the correct angles and support is achieved. Then, they need to translate those angles to a piece of permanent material and add that to the bunks. My idea is to remove the plastic material that is attached to the bunks (at the rear of the bunks), then add a marine grade 2 x 4 to the aluminum bunks, then reinstall the plastic material to the 2x4's.
×