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Everything posted by BradM

  1. New MBG Factory Update

    Looking good! Your contractors are moving at a fast pace, which is always nice. Fingers crossed for good weather for the duration or at least until your dried in. How long has this been in the works? MBG clearly had their ducks in a row when they pulled the trigger on this.
  2. What did you do to your boat today?

    Today was productive, but I had hoped to get more accomplished. I threw on a new set of trailer lights I had in the garage, which is almost an annual thing anymore. I bought a new live well motor with intentions of replacing the old one. Once I removed the old cartridge, I hit the wires on my cranking battery and it worked! Thought I had a bad switch, but that tested fine. I dug into the wiring and saw that someone (previous owner) had butt connected the wires a ways upstream, the connections had corroded pretty bad and we're only sending 4-5 VDC downstream. Clipped those off and made new connections. All is well in the world. Really wanted to tackle the dash panel, but wasn't mentally prepared to do so. I really dislike wiring....So I sanded, gouged and prepped some areas that I wanted to touch up the gel coat. It kicked right at dark, so I will sand it this weekend sometime. I also changed the lower unit oil, wiped down the bilge, and made a call to Alpine. My head unit is a-okay! A clean up on the inside, a new circuit board and she's good as new. It should be back by the end off the week.
  3. Newbie here

    I see you're (assuming) N.FL. If you're near the Jacksonville area, you can try Mousa's Interior. Good luck and welcome. https://www.facebook.com/MousasAutoInteriorsAndMore/
  4. 2200V with 150SHO

    The i4 F200 is a dog....I was less than impressed on the boat I was on that had it. Slow to plane, slow for the size boat and, just felt under powered for a 22' boat.
  5. What did you do to your boat today?

    Well, I sent the gauges out to the gauge guy. I couldn't work out a time to meet up with him, but he's only about 30 minutes south of me. Also sent my prop out to Texas for a hub and a tune up. Steve's Custom Props does a great job and I've always been pleased with his work. My head unit took a dump on me, so I sent it out to Alpine to be repaired. Fingers crossed it's a minor issue. I plan to clean up the trailer this weekend and tidy up the bilge. As torn as I am, the days of owning this rig are coming to a close. I hope to fish her one more time before listing, but with vacation quickly approaching and a a new boat on the not so distant horizon, the window seems to be quickly closing. I'll post pics as soon as things are back together. HYD, it's almost spring, better wax that rig again!
  6. PF 2500 T-top speakers wiring

    Don't forget the braided line or string, and vacuum cleaner "trick".
  7. Between Facebook, and some folks here, I thought I would post how I made the forward seats for my 1900v. Like most of us with this boat or similar models of this era, we walk all over these cushions; much more so than sit here. I took my interior out on more than one occasion to have it reupholstered only to have the shop fall through or something come up requiring the use of my boat (fishing). Hating the looks of what I had and my growing frustration, I needed a solution that I could do at home and on my time…no one responsible for the deadline other than me. After a lot of research and looking around, I decided on King Starboard for my new seat base material. The OEM stuff under the upholstery and foam appeared to be expanded polystyrene or something or that nature. While light, it was just too light for my liking. I’m a big boy and most of my fishing buddies are too. I knew that I was going to be covering whatever I made with SeaDek, as I have that on my cooler and stand on there all the time. I like the ease of clean up and the sure footing SeaDek provides and a little cushion too. The best deal I could find on Starboard was through Boat Outfitters. They will cut what you need at a fair price. I opted for two pieces of ¾” thick in the Arctic White color measuring 15”x 48” which was roughly the overall size of my current cushions +/- an inch in either direction ($193 including tax and shipping). As for SeaDek, I purchased their large sheet of textured material ($149 for a roll) directly through SeaDek. I am local to Gemlux, and scoured their discount page for a little bit and made a few trips to their shop on my lunch breaks. I decided on new compression latches in the 2” size as well as four friction hinges. I was out the door for less than $50.00. Score! Now that I had all my material, less fasteners, I was ready to begin layout. I removed the old seat cushions and pulled all 2 million staples out of one (flip over for port to starboard, no need to remove material off both cushions). This gave me a template to trace onto my piece of Starboard. I knew I would be moving the compression latches, so I left those holes out until I had the new bases mounted in place, and then located where the new holes would be. I planned on using my router to cut the Starboard, but due to poor planning and time constraints, I had to use my jig saw. I picked up a couple of Bosch blades that were like a skeleton of a blade. The idea behind this is to dissipate heat quicker than a solid blade. I do not know if this helped, but nothing melted and I had clean cuts. Try not to disengage and reengage the material a lot as these “stop and go’s” create ridges in the edge versus a clean edge. Not to fret, this stuff sands pretty well too! Locating the hardware…I really wanted to flip the opening of the hatches so they opened from the inside, rather than from the outside to the inside. I didn’t do this for a few reasons though. 1) Being that I have a toddler and I didn’t want him messing with them and have one close on his arm/hand on accident. 2) I always load these compartments from outside the boat…bonus. 3) I was concerned about the amount of material to mount the hinges on, and if it would hold up to the weight and misuse of careless folks (wife’s friends). So, I kept them where they were, although I did relocate the mounting points a few inches in outboard of where they were. I also installed new T-Nuts on the top side of the hatch. The OEM ones are just hammered into the material and left as is. Not a big deal since they foamed and covered, but this little protrusion would be an obvious bump in the SeaDek in all four spots the T-Nuts are. I used a spade blade to countersink and flush the T-Nuts with the Starboard. I recommend a pilot hole, but not too large as the bit will want to wonder. Once you get them flush, drill through with the proper size bit for the new bolts/machine screws. Just like not wanting the appearance of ‘bubbles’ in the SeaDek from the T-Nuts, I didn’t want voids where the threads were either. I ran a Q-Tip from the bottom side up, until it was almost flush with the threaded hole. Then I mixed up some two part epoxy and filled in the hole, and sanded flush with the Starboard when it hardened. Not that you have to, but I bought a piece aluminum flat bar from my local Ace, and cut it the length from hinge to hinge. I ran a piece on the underside of the fiberglass to help distribute the moment of inertia when operating the doors. Between the weight of the material and the friction hinges, I figure it helps more than hurts. Locating the compression latches is pretty straight forward. I ended up using the center location on the OEM piece, but had to move it closer to the edge that it would latch to. This is because I went with a smaller latch as mentioned earlier. ***I cut the compression latch holes with a holesaw. Don’t!*** Way too much heat and it melted into a mess. Nothing that wasn’t easily fixed, but this was my only mistake and knuckle headed, self-inflicted problem during this job. I did the other side with the same hole aw, but paced myself and squirted a bunch of water on the material and holesaw during the process. Sticking the landing. My biggest concern with this project was the SeaDek and the possibility of absolutely ruining $150 worth of material. I cut a small piece off with a razor knife and made a few cuts for practice. Easy enough to cut and work with, but would it stick to the Starboard? I unrolled my SeaDek in the grass and put some weight on the ends to keep it that way while the sun worked on it while I prepped the Starboard. I roughed up the surface with 80 grit and wiped it down with acetone….a couple times! REMEMBER HANDEDNESS (left/right) AND TOP versus BOTTOM when doing this step. I was ready to trace my new Starboard piece onto the SeaDek, and did so leaving about an 1/4” all the way around and covered right over the compression latch hole, too. I nervously peeled the backing off, and laid it down, progressively removing the backing as I went. No big deal. I have a router, and for $50 and a trip to Harbor Freight, you can too. I used my router with a quarter round bit with a built in guide to finish the edge of the SeaDek flush with the Starboard; just set the depth for the reveal you want and go. Concerned with the base of the router sticking to the SeaDek and causing sticking issues, I ran clear box/packing tape over the surface I planned to run the router across….this was totally unnecessary as it would turn out. The router base runs just fine over SeaDek, no sticking issues at all. Poke a hole where the latches go, and run that too. Easy as 1-2-3! Once stuck and trimmed, I put the piece SeaDek down and stacked whatever weight I had on it for a couple of days….I wanted to make sure it stuck and stuck well! Done. From beginning to end I probably had 10 hours of thinking about all the mistakes I was going to make, and 3-4 hours of actual labor. Not that you need a lot of tools, for this project, but there are some that make it easier. Note the table saw in the background…never used it. Not once. Well, I did use it for a table a bit, but not to cut. I already owned every tool I used, but relied on my jig saw for the cuts, router to clean up the SeaDek (not necessary, but nice), drill and bits, combination square, razor knife/blades and that’s about it. I have 6-7 months of use on these pieces now and I love them. They’ve worked flawlessly and look good too. And yes, I did recover the backrest at the cooler seat and the leaning post too, but that’s a different thread.
  8. 1900v Seat Cushion to Starboard "How to"

    Yes sir, ran the jig saw on all of it. There wasn't really a straight cut anywhere. The short edge is straight, which I used the factory edge on the material for that (obviously). Sorry my father in-law picked up the spare stuff I had. Home Depot carries it in 1/2" x 2' x 4' for around $50. I'll see if Scott (not you) has any left over from his project and I'll send it your way. It will be a week or so before he gets to it. Standard 1/4 round did the trick. I messed with the reveal on a scrap piece with some Seadek on it. Stuff is messy as heck! Thanks!
  9. 1900v Seat Cushion to Starboard "How to"

    Mine will be for sale shortly. Hoping to list it in the next few weeks.
  10. Hello Skip, We'll be passing through Ft. Pierce at the beginning of March, and if possible, we would like to tour the plant. I can't remember what day you do the plant tours, but I know we'll be passing through on a Wednesday. Also, my local dealer is Atlantic Coast Marine, based out of Jacksonville, FL. We have our eyes on a boat they currently have in stock, but we're just a month or so shy of being ready to pull the trigger. The boss is in love with the color combo, and should this sell, we will be ordering one identical to this one, with a few small changes. So, what's the current lead time in the shop and what do you have forecasted for lead time come March/April? Usually not too important, but being boat-less for any period of time scares the heck out of me. What options do I have when it come to electronics? Can I have that, power pole and trolling motor installed at the factory or should I tackle that on my own? I like Simrad, MinnKota and Power Pole; the boat on the lot we like, has one out of the three having Garmin and Motor Guide. I suppose anything is an option anymore. Thank you for your time! Best, Brad
  11. 2015 2300HPS 47,995

    Left a message, didn't get a call back. If it truly has 165 hours on it, and it's not beat to hell...It will be gone before I can get to it.
  12. Hi Skip, Thank you for the info. Long time owner and "family member", I can't even consider leaving the brand. We went to the boat show for the sole purpose of comparing the 24 TRS and the 23 HPS, side by side. I know what I want, but had to help the wife 'understand' why the 23 is the best boat for our little family, and what we'll be doing 95% of the time with the boat; fishing! Our trip to Ft. Lauderdale just changed, and we will be passing through on Tuesday now, and coming back on Sunday (which you are closed). I would hate to inconvenience you for our own tour, but might have to ask for just that as the date approaches. My wife travels for work a lot, and it's not to often she's home during the week, let alone a free week day. I'll be in touch towards the end of February to firm things up. Regards, Brad
  13. 2015 2300HPS 47,995

    I'm going to call the guy tomorrow and check the hours on it.
  14. Lenco actuator

    The braid trick will work. Prisoners used to "saw" through their cell bars with dental floss, using toothpaste as the abrasive. Good luck!
  15. I forgot all about the inside....Finishing the underside will be really nice. My grandparents old house (currently my uncles) out on the Suwanne is 10' up, and we insulated and finished that out. Simple plywood and paint type deal, which made access to the plumbing and duct work easy, if necessary. Are you going to keep the a/c down on ground level or build a landing for it and tie into the existing duct work? I can see benefits to both, but something to ponder if not already figured out. Little man isn't so little anymore and the wife looks great! I'm sure y'all can't wait to get back to normal and enjoy the home you have dedicated so much time and money to. Hang in there, third time is a charm....right?
  16. Once it's back on the beams and the mason is done, what's left? Obviously plumbing and I would guess electric, too? How much more is contracted out versus what you're going to take on? I know how you're usually a few steps ahead, and I'm curious as to what you're thinking.
  17. What did you do to your boat today?

    Money well spent!
  18. What did you do to your boat today?

    Looks great, HYD! I'm gearing up to start working in mine again. As the days get a little longer, it gives me a little more time after the kid gets to bed. I've been stock piling little things here and there. This spring I'll install the switch panel I bought last year, have the gauges cleaned up by the gauge guy, and install new switchs. Along with that, I'm going to clean up the wiring for the tm batteries and add a battery switch for those.
  19. Man, this is amazing! We were down there the other night and I wanted to drive by, but we had a couple with us. What is the expected move in date for y'all?
  20. Pathfinder parts

    The cup holders should be stabdard size, available at Walmart. The windshield may be found at Flounder Pounder Marine (link below)...There's a company out of Daytona that made them, but I can't recall their name. I'll look on my boat tomorrow and see if I can still make out the manufacturers decal on mine, and report back. http://www.fpmarine.com/
  21. Insane. Just insane! Hang in there, and let me know when you're ready to start swinging hammers.
  22. As cool as it's going to be, it's heartbreaking that this has happened again and in such a short period of time.
  23. Lenco trim tab trouble shooting

    Now you're talkin'!
  24. Lenco trim tab trouble shooting

    It is as easy as checking for voltage at the trim tab actuator, and then going from there. To clear things up, the switch also is/has an actuator. The cover is called the actuator cover. The trim tab also as an actuator, which is the more common actuator people refer to. So your question in another thread about what the actuator is, is actually a good question. If you need to replace the Lenco actuator, shop around online. I found a place in Texas that had them for a considerable amount less than anywhere local and most places online. I'm talking $50-$80 each less I saved over $100 on the pair based on what my local Boaters Discount quoted me. Fishing them through is easy. There is usually a Deutsch connecter (if they're original) or even bullet connectors. If they've been replaced, you'll find typical butt connectors. When replacing the actuator, I cut the cable at the actuator and leave the cable outside of the hull; replace the actuator and then leave the new actuator cable free. I tie a thin string to the end of the old cable and and tape it in place with electrical tape...and pull it on through to where I'll be making the connection in the hull/bilge, leaving PLENTY of string outside of the hull. Tie the loose end of the string to the end of the new cable, tape it in place with electrical tape and hit the lead end with WD-40, soap, Vaseline, etc....Guide the bulky end into the hole, then GENTLY pull the string on through. This works really well if you can feed in a few feet from the stern and the gently pull up the slack into the hull. You'll have your new end in the blink of an eye. Make your connection however you see fit and you're in business.
  25. I found this on my computer at work and I'm unsure of where it came from....I know I have all the manuals for my boat at the house, but don't recall having this piece of the 'puzzle'. The fuel capacity debate can be officially put to bed now.