BradM

Post up when you try that Rev. I have the one you want, but it's getting worked on right now. Balanced, pitch verified, and possibly a back cut. Stock, on the same boat as your signature boat, but with a 250 SHO, I could only swing it to 5600 rpm with full fuel and 4 batteries. I did see 61.4 mph at that rpm. Planing took a little longer than I like, but wasn't terrible. I should be able to swing 59-6100 when I get it back from Rich. You should fly with that 300!

That shurhold is a game changer! Looks good!

I've got to know; is the wife jealous of the new rig yet?

Congratulations! Welcome to the family.

Is that forest green? Need a bimini top for it, stainless with green canvas? It will fit perfectly. I'm about to toss it, unless you want it. I'm located in Jax. FL

That M1A is the cats.....nice rifle. Glad y'all started violating your coolers with your firearms. Saved me a trip to the barn tonight.

I had a 1900v for 10 or so years, and know the struggle well! The acces on the newer boats is ridiculous!!!! I don't even know how to act now. Glad you got her fixed and under way.

They were gold/bronze back then. Looks like the ones you have are OEM. Be prepared to do some compounding and maybe even wet sanding to minimize fading where the decals are.

Leading Edge Propellers in Bradenton.

There's a few things going on here, and none of them are good. A thicker plate isn't going to distribute more weight, it just won't give as much during lifting. I would look at at least 1/4" stainless (as Jem suggested) and being that I like driving finishing nails with a sledge hammer, I would use 1/2" if it will fit. Go with as wide a piece you can fit, not necessarily longer. Bigger IS better here. Also, can you gain access to the whole assembly? Take it all off, sleeve the holes in the glass/transom with a piece of what, 1/2" O.D. round tube with an I.D. That matches the bolts/lifting eyes (are they 3/8"?), and the thickness of the transom? This will force the bolts to tighten to the tube and not compress the glass and foam coring....how MBG should have done it. Next is those extending blocks that push the eyelets out, but I suppose you need them. Lastly, ditch the Chinease hooks on the davets before they kill someone. Quick sketch....of course run as big of a fender washer that you can fit.

There's a fella on here that goes by Outlaw, he can make a ladder for you. Look him up. Congrats on the new rig, looks great!

Calling it sold. Thank you so much, D-linesider! Thank you too MBG, for the platform and allowing us to buy, sell, trade here.

As titled, my boat came with an 80 Qt. Engel cooler, that is white. I've never put ice in it, and it has sat in the garage since I brought the boat home (6 weeks ago). The cooler has "Pathfinder Angler Driven" molded into it...I will post pictures later on this evening or tomorrow morning. The Engel website has these listed at $299; I'm asking $250. Must pic up in Jacksonville, FL. Thank you for looking!

I help mine drain by putting a leaf blower on the deck side. Never been clogged, just an easy thing for you to try.

Hey Fishcast, I don't own the boat anymore or I would post pics. But to answer your question, yes. On the side walls inside the console, I took an an angle grinder with 80 grit paper on it and roughed up the walls about 4"-5" from the raised base, up. I did the same on the bottom of the raised base, but from the console wall in 4"-5"...I did not glass over or near the drain holes at the rear (helm side) of the console. Wear a respirator or at least a quality dust mask when you do this. You can also sand by hand, but I'm always in a hurry. Now cut some mat or roving in strips about 5" wide and as long as each of the 3 sides of the console. Test fit them and get a feel for how it's going to lay out... mix up some marine resin with the proper amount of hardener, and get after it. I use a cheap "chip" brush the rough in and then a roller specifically for glassing, to get air bubbles out (not essential here, but nice). I did a couple layers here. I can't remember how heavy a cloth I used at first, but it wasn't light. Once it kicked, I added another layer, but went further up and with a wider strip...8" or so. I went over those two layers with maybe 10 oz. cloth....and 10" wide. This just cleans up nicer. I never had it come loose after that. Oh yeah, run a bead of silicone down in the crack between the raised deck piece and the console. This will keep resin from leaking through and onto the deck, outside of the console. A strip of masking tape or painters tape will work, too. Don't use wide tape, just 1" or so. You don't want the glass job to be compromised. You can mix up some gel coat and fill in your work, but that's up to you.