BradM

Bruce, Gemlux is right down the road from my house. Let me know if I need to swing by there are some point to get "hands on".

What Skip said is true, but the 22p Bravo is dang close to checking all the boxes on the HPS. Robert3, the Bravo FS 22 out accelerates my PowerTech OFX/4 in 20p. BCPD - I have the fancy cooler seat and wouldn’t change it for anything. I have a wife and kid that like to hop the sandbars in the summer, so a secure and well padded seat is nice. I fish a lot in the winter and never take it out. With me and two other big boys, we have no issues getting around it. There is a ton more rom without it, but the cooler space is too valuable for me....and it’s a nice place to sit and re-tie.

Not at all! I'm saying I'd start out with a Bravo FS in 22, before anything, and then go from there. You'll be able to catch the rev limiter with it when you're light, more than likely. All of them are different...Sunstone's set up was faster than mine was by 1-2 mph, and some other guys, too. The FS series is quick out of the hole....ridiculously quick. I have a crappy cell phone video I took while trying to work the throttle, steer and video...I'll trim the video down so you can see the hole shot. Also, my boat like the jack plate way down for top speed...even all the way down, which allows more trim angle. Mulligan, I spin it up fine and it runs well for me. It does not have the "slippery" feeling of a stock FS; it's more hooked for sure!

With that load, you don't want a 24p....or at all. I couldn't turn it very well and speed was way down. I even went and ran it way light and still couldn't do much with the 24. I went with a 22 and ran the same range as Sunstone...I have a 23p now, and run about the same as I did with the 22. No real gain, so what they say is true. I do know for a fact the odd numbers are hand "worked" from the next even number down; they add cup to make it "act" like a 23,25,27, etc. This was confirmed via phone call with Scott Reichow (sp) of Mercury Racing. Also, I sent a Bravo FS out to be worked and upon return, compared it to a brand new in the box FS, the difference is amazing! If you look at the stock FS, with the thrust washer side on a table/bench, half the blade is laid back, meaning it doesn't run out to the tip end at the same angle as it starts at from the hub. When having them worked (by Steve's Custom Props anyhow) they bring the lazy side of the blade up, run the cup out around the tip further and put a little sharper profile on the leading edge. Josh (owner of Steve's) said a 3-4 mph gain is typical, with the best gain being 9 mph! This work from Steve's will run $250/prop, and he includes balancing and polishing it back up. I'll try to remember to upload pics later. As for load out...With me and two buddies (all around 250 lbs./ea) a bunch of inshore rods...fully loaded with tackle bags, cooler, cooler seat, and a full release well (45 gallons of water) AND 35 gallons of gas, I ran 56-57 with the 23p, last Sunday. I also have a 36v trolling motor set up and a Motorguide Xi5. Same boat has also gone 67.3 mph with the FS in 22p.

I couldn't agree more! I loved it on my old boat and just added one last weekend to the new boat. Genius idea!

Another one lost far down the rabbit hole. A guy I used to fish against a lot had a Lake and Bay that he had a spare puck for the trolling motor for, aft the console. It should be simple enough if you don't mid blocking access to a hatch or two, which would only be while under way. I am looking at doing the same thing on my 23, and like you, a windshield, bow weight, etc. may only be a few MPH, but it adds up quick! Did you happen to see the thread about working the high speed pick up grate? I have not done mine yet, but plan to this "winter", when I will be in the hunt to crack 70. I plan to do something with the windshield, too. I have noticed my boat (due to the console I guess) is VERY wind sensitive. I also plan to fab up a hole shot plate too, which may be minimal, but will at least cut down the splash back when coming off plane.

I replaced those a handful of times on my old Pathfinder. Not through bolted and easy enough to do, but be patient. When you clip the connection in the bilge, tie a piece of string on the end you're going to pull out of the boat, obviously make sure it's long enough to pull the new cable back through. I have found that the string doesn't like to stay put on the cable, so I got to where I would wrap a bailing wire around the cable end using a pair of pliers to make sure I'm tight on the cable. I'd make a basic loop on the other end of the bailing wire to tie my string on...grease up the cable with Vasoline or something, and get at it. Nothing to it. My local Boaters Discount carries the standard Lenco actuator and they're typically around $170-$200. A couple years back I found them online (can't recall where) from a shop in Texas. They were $114 w/ free shipping. If you're not in a hurry, shop them online for the best price.

Hey Ryan, I grew up in central Palm Beach Co. and moved to Jacksonville in '91. I get anxious when I get to the county line in Palm Beach, and absolutely dislike it down there anymore. Hate is a strong word, but what it was and what it currently is are two different things. Not bashing it....but I could never move back. I currently live at the very bottom of Duval Co. (Jacksonville) with St. Johns Co, being about a mile from my house. All the public schools near me in Duval are A rated, and St. Johns Co. is known for their public shools as being some of the best in the state. I live on an acre in a non-HOA neighborhood and have plenty of room for my rig (23'). It's slower here than down south and people while kind on both ends of the state, are more "southern" here. It's just easier....As for fishing, offshore is great in both places, but you're going to make a haul leaving from here compared to down south. 50+ miles compared to 5-10 miles. Jacksonville is Navy friendly with several bases (where would you be, NAS Jax. or Mayport?). My buddy just moved back from VA and is based out of NAS Jax., and bought a house down in St. Augustine. He's on this forum as @Black Pearl and may have some insight for you.

Did you run this on the HPS? I wonder how this would do on OliversHPS, I see he’s looking one on the prop page for Pathfinder, but in 23p. I know the performance bulletin called for the HS4/23 but that’s probably not realistic day in and day out. I bet this 21 would be really close on an HPS with gas and gear.

Those are hide to find and command a premium when you do find one. Your new boat has a t-top, right? If you’re willing to try a 4 blade, see if you can get your hands on a Mercury Bravo 1 FS in 22 pitch. Just to try out and see what it does. I don’t have one anymore or I’d send it to you for testing.

This thread isn't helping things at my house. I have an '18 HPS and Momma is looking for more room and a big t-top....Lots of great info here, especially the first hand experience from pbspecial moving up from the 23 to the 25. There's that much more room than the 23?!? I know PF put the batteries below, which is a nice feature for sure having; all that console floor space. Thank you for starting this thread, Fin, it saved me from having to.

Glassing the console down on the older 1900v models was a popular fix for this issue. I did it twice on my old one; the second one stuck and never needed to be addressed again. I'll admit the first attempt and failure was due to my haste and crappy prep work. I know better. The second time around I followed a solid layup schedule and used the proper resin. It's not a bad job.....if you can manage to wedge yourself into the console through the access hatch. My only compliant was I had to do it twice.

Way to go! Looks GOOD!

I thought he was running a 300, so I confirmed with him, and he is not. Slight oversight on my end. Thank you for your abundant contribution.

He's running a Merc. 350.