BradM

I spoke about the "oil making" in depth with my local Yamaha mechanic, and his theory on it made plenty of sense to me, but I have not researched it to confirm or validate his opinion; perhaps the factory opinion or bulletin. The idea is that that while trolling or idling for long periods of time with the engine at a negative trim, it allows oil to pool on the lower two cylinders. This excess oil doesn't allow for a good seal for the rings in the cylinder, which allows fuel to get washed into the crank case/oil reservoir. The cylinders in the SHO (perhaps all Yamaha's now) are plasma infused aluminum; no more cast iron sleeves. As you can imagine, this provides a pretty slick cylinder wall, and coupled with excessive oil, you're asking for the very issue some of you are seeing. The fix may not be running the dog mess out your engine though. As discussed with the mechanic, if you're going to be idling or trolling for prolonged periods of time, trim up some. Get the engine at least level or a slight positive trim on it. This will encourage the oil to go back into the crank case (sump tank) and allow the cylinders and rings to seal properly. I only have 5.4 hours on my SHO, and initial thoughts are that it's a BEAST!

I'm in the process of securing a wheel lock or two now. People ***!

I'm not sure if I have more or less footprint in my console (23 HPS) but the dealer rigged my batteries in line with the bow/boat. I measured it out, and changed them to run perpendicular to the boat; now a 5th battery will fit where the yellow circle is...even though it doesn't look like it in this picture. Can you realign the batteries to gain the room you need?

Flounder Pounder Marine makes them, too. And they can be back lit if you choose to do so later. Here's mine in my old 2001, 1900v. I want to say it was around $120 or so....I just put in a few weeks ago, right before I sold the boat.

Looking good!

The one up by where I work has it. It's off Lane, between Normandy and I-10. Epoxy and all that stick to it way better than Starboard. It holds fasteners well, too. https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-x-48-in-x-96-in-White-PVC-Sheet-Panel-190360/205079515

I've seen people doing that and like it. Just above where the upper studs are is a bolt for the grab rail, I made my amp board so I could utilize the existing bolt. I also used PVC sheet, which takes adhesive better than Starboard (I'm guessing that's why you use weld mounts to affix the Starboard with). I used t-nuts on the back of the PVC sheet, so it shouldn't pull through. I wish the factory would have given these consoles more coring....or at least stick the PVC sheet in there for us.

On my 19', I used a piece of 1" Coosa Board, that I cut to fit in the console. I had to make it in two pieces, which was fine. I used the smaller of the two pieces as my new 'access' door. I had 4 Optima blue tops on it for years, and never had an issue. It's spendy, but a lot lighter than starboard. I simply rattle can'd it white....no resin or sealer needed on Coosa. How big of a piece do you need for the floor section? I think I bought mine from Boat Outfitters, and they will cut it to size and charge accordingly.

Expanded pvc sheet...holds screws well and you can use methacralyte epoxy to adhear it to the console walls/sides. It's light and readily available...affordable, too! A sheet of 1/2" x 2' x 4' is $27 at Home Depot. They also carry 3/4" and it's closer to $50. The epoxy was a challenge to find at the usual places, but my local Ace had it. It's Devcon Plastic Weld...read the back and make sure it has methacralyte in it.

Needed a place to mount the amp, and with the console only being about 1/2" think, I needed more material. Looks like the dealer installed 1/2" PVC sheet to mount the battery charger to (I'm moving that starboard tonight). I would have liked it if they made one big piece there, but I can work around it. I was just going to epoxy my piece in place, but the grab rail bolt was too close not to utilize. I'll take wake and chop with piece of mind knowing my amp is secure with both epoxy and a mechanical fastener. A trip to Ace for a 1/4-20 a 1/2" longer than what was there fit the bill perfectly. I'll wire it up tonight and lay out speaker holes.

There's an in water boat show in Jax this coming weekend. Call Tommy Kinchen of Atlantic Cost, he'll probably make sure you get to ride in one.

Gemlux out of Orange Park, FL has them. Call, they are not listed online.

MY 1900 was like that when I bought it. I took everything out from under the console and hit the floor and about 3 inches up the console wall with 80 grit. I mixed up some resin and chopped mat and glassed it the console to the floor. I mixed up another batch of resin and filled all the old screw holes....never had another issue.

I couldn't handle how the dealer installed my batteries, so I lined them all up properly and cleaned up the wiring. The jumpers are too long now, but I will make new ones tonight, and finish that up. Also powered up the new JL Audio MM100S-BE

Good luck, DC! All you fellas with a 1900v, with a 115 2 stroke, this is THE prop for that combo.