BradM

Tony will do a nice job and is FAST. He can more than likely quote you over the phone as he has done a ton of MBG rewires. He isn't the cheapest, probably in the $3k range....cheap labor isn't skilled and skilled labor isn't cheap. Side note....are you a turkey hunter, asking because of your handle.

Gemlux is who makes them with the logo cast into the metal. They’re located in Jacksonville, FL (like me). I have not been to their new place, but hear it’s really nice.

How do you like the Enertia? What else have you run Merc. wise before you went with this prop? I have a line on one, but am hesitant. I'm currently running a Bravo 1 FS in 22p. Sorry to jump in with no real advise, OP. The OFX4 is a great prop, I do know that!

My good friend is a battery guy and has most of the NE FL marinas; his words “ALWAYS put your batteries on charge as soon as you possibly can and don’t take them off until you take the boat out.” My old boat batteries were 9 years old and worked perfectly when I sold it.

Something is on the move at 11 o’clock from the tm. Fished your neck of the woods on Saturday, and you’ve got some man sized tarpon right at the mouth of a popular marina. Dang things were longer than I am tall, Todd. All wet, the worst part of the deal is realizing how out of shape you are running a sander, buffer and polisher over head from your back.

I fixed mine, myself. It wasn't as bad as yours is, but it wasn't much better. I didn't care if it was a perfect match, so I used plain white gel, which is WAAAAY more white than the hull is. It's tedious and not fun....but it didn't cost me more than $30 and a LOT of time on a piece of cardboard. I mixed up the gel and applied it with a cheap chip/paint brush and came back and sanded it down with 60 grit, then finer as I got closer to where I wanted it to be. I'd take it somewhere if I had to do it again. Someone can spray it, and buff it out a heck of a lot faster and my time is worth something, having a 3 y/o.

I just switched to Smith's about a month ago for the same reasons pertaining to brand 'X'. I love how lightweight they are and the Chromapop + lenses are pretty amazing. In a side by side with my buddy wearing brand 'X', I see fish that he can't. Thank you for sharing your warranty experience!

I like the tennis balls on the bracket. I'm sure the boat cover loves them too!

Hi Red Zone, I sent you a PM. I called ACM on this one, although a 2019, there is not much price difference on the 2018’s unless they’re used. This one is at $85k w/o a chart plotter. I also didn’t notice a trolling motor. https://www.atlanticcoastmarine.com/default.asp?page=xNewInventoryDetail&id=6051333&p=1&s=Year&d=D&t=new&fr=xNewInventory

Regardless of who's cup of tea it is or isn't, as you mention Capt. Troy, there's a lot of great info here! I designed and built a 900 h.p small block Chevy for a car that came from the factory with a 150 h.p. and 190 lb. ft. of torque. It was reliable and I drove it daily. Even had a/c and cruise control. I'm not saying I kept the stock transmission, drive shaft, rear end, etc. in it. I built my first maximum effort small block Chevy at age 12, before that I washed parts, lubed bearings, installed lifters or any other small, odd job my dad would allow me to do. He was a professional drag racer and mechanic when I was a kid. I was at home in the pit of the NHRA, with old timers such as Don Garlits, Arnie Beswick (dads close friend), Don Nicholson, Shirley Muldowney, and many more. After that, he worked as a diesel mechanic; this is why I have a hard time blurring the lines with gas and diesel engines. I know both better than most, and have built hundreds of one and thousands of the other. I even pulled a stint at Caterpillar, in their engine dept. for a short period of time. My dad, in his early life, was a machinist at Caterpillar, in Illinois, his bothers too. My uncle went on to own and run his own machine shop (I apprenticed in as a teenager) until his passing in 2000. I've built single cylinder Wisconsin engines for mini pulling tractors (standard garden tractor) on up to 2500-3000 h.p. blown, nitro engines and just about everything in between. I currently work in, no surprise, a manufacturing facility with a full machine shop, but a completely different (more stable/promising) industry. While it doesn't satisfy my urge to build engines, it does satisfy my desire to engineer, produce and make cool stuff. So this seemingly simple (I know it isn't, Simon) tune doesn't concern me in the least. I understand the parameters being changed and what the end result is. Prior to Simon joining this forum, and giving a much more detailed explanation than I ever would have, we communicated via email for a week or so. Simon gave me the graphs, charts, and data I needed to see before I even posted this thread. If I thought it was garbage, I wouldn't have subjected anyone here with mis-information or 'hack' tunes. Once I noticed some interest in his product, I invited Simon here to see the message I had conveyed and he offered to elaborate. I'm glad he did! So, if it's your thing or not, I think anyone interested can extrapolate the information they need to make an educated decision as to if this tune is an option for them or not. Me personally, I wouldn't mind seeing a few MPH more of cruise speed and if I gain 3-4 MPH on top, great! Truth is, just me and 20 gallons of fuel, and all my batteries can see 63 MPH...add a buddy, tackle, beverages and 20 more gallons of fuel, I'm down to 58-59. I'd simply like to be back at 63-64 when loaded. That's all. I see my same hull with a 300 can run around 65 MPH with gear, that's all I want. Do I need it? Nope....I also don't need a 23 HPS, but I have one. I appreciate everyone's participation in this thread and hope that those who got banned find their way back in time. Tight lines and be safe!

Great looking boat and man, that's moving!!!

For the betterment of this thread, can you please share the state statute that dictates motor vehicles or marine vessels meet an emissions standard in Florida. When you traded your truck in, you were no longer the end user. The dealer needs to be able to sell that truck to any customer (or auction off) located anywhere in the country...The document you signed allows them to come back to you should something be amiss with the emission system. Sooooo many people who delete/omit these items on their truck keep them so they can return to stock at a later date. As for high RPM and diesel engines, there's simply no need. They make maximum torque at very low RPM....that's the intent of the design. For comparison, look at maximum effort GAS engine applications; Indy cars, NASCAR cup cars, even sport bikes. If you look at the Yamaha R1, which is 1000 c.c.'s (1 liter) it makes somewhere around 160 h.p. In theory, if you double the displacement, you should make 320 h.p. I don't believe the 4.2 liter is breaking a sweat at the 300 h.p. mark. There are simply too many variables at play to discuss in this thread or this forum. As for my personal application, my rig is rated for 300 h.p. I think I'll live on the edge and go for that additional 8-10% (on it's best day) increase. I wouldn't assume that the manufacturer isn't interested in the performance of their hulls, especially since Mr. Lyshon directed us to Ft. Myers Marine to obtain the tune we're discussing in this thread.

The government puts that on the manufacturer of the engine, not the end user. Since everyone likes to talk about tuning diesels here.....It's not illegal to remove/bypass all the emissions stuff of a brand new diesel truck, if you're the owner of said truck.

Thank you for joining Simon! You have shed more light on this subject than I was willing to based off our discussions and my general knowledge and experience, although automotive. dabear, where are you located? In Florida, we do not have an emissions law or standard. No need to badge anything as non-compliant, although I do believe big rig tractors are to be clean idle certified if they leave them running for long periods of time while....idling.

Send it back to Bryan at Fort Myers Marine and flash it back to stock. I was under the impression that it wouldn't cost much more than shipping. You can also buy the cable and all that from Nizpro, and do the flash yourself. This allows you to save the stock ECU file to your machine, which you could switch back whenever you wanted. I believe this option is around $1,400. I have invited Simon, of Nizpro, to join this forum and participate in this discussion. He doesn't have the time to frequent every manufacturers forum or reply to every thread, but hopefully he will make an appearance here soon.