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About RipTide

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    tournament grade

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  1. RipTide

    Shark Hide

  2. RipTide

    Shark Hide

    Might I recommend an aluminum cleaner/brightener like AlumiPrep 33 or Henkel 594015 BONDERITE C-IC 33 or something along these lines if your allergic to elbow grease? Always check the MSDS's for chemical composition & comparison as a lot of this stuff is almost the same regardless of the name on the bottle and can be cheaper under different names. Due diligence gentlemen............., could make your life a little simpler, easier and nicer to your wallet. And don't forget to wear your PPE when playing with these chemicals.
  3. Since I never included such info in my restoration thread I thought I'ld go ahead and share for anybody interested. So, here's the list of materials and the process of building the underwater lights I built for the flats boat. Materials Smooth On EpoxAcast 690 resin https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/epoxacast/ Perforated Electronics Board LED Diodes (10mm) High Output http://www.ledssuperbright.com/10mm-led-c-9?zenid=6d4ae7fc2add1e1b4a22e114e3640014 Tin Coated Marine Grade Wiring (14 gauge) Soldering Gun Tinned Solder 1/2" MDF Particle Board (Home Improvement Store) Polyurethane Clear Coat (Home Improvement Store) ************************************************ I couldn't find the old remnants of the epoxy I used but am almost certain I used the EpoxAcast 690 due to it's UV inhabitant properties. May sure you weigh the compound and follow the instructions to a "T". Process STEP 1 Clear coat your MDF board with 1 coat of clear by spraying method. Let it cure over night and then lightly sand the surface with 220 grit and an orbital sander. Spray an additional coat on the surface and let if cure out for a few days until it gets hard. Cut the board accordingly to your desired specifications. Glue all the mold pieces together. Predrill the corners and secure with drywall screws. Seal the interior joints and wipe smooth. (If memory serves me correctly, I seem to remember I sealed my interior corners with Elmer's glue and wiped the excess out). Drill a small hole in the center of the mold slightly smaller than the wiring your going to be using. Apply multiple coats/layers of mold release to the inside of the form. Set aside for casting. STEP 2 Cut your electronics board 1" smaller on the height of the desired finished light panel. And 2"'s shorter. This will allow you room for drilling and attachment to your hull. Space and install your LED diode 3/8" apart from each other. This is the measurement the actual domed part of the LED diode lens should be from each other once finished off. Install the diodes one at a time and start soldering the diode legs with tinned solder in a "Series". Once finished make 1 twist with the wires as close to the back of the LED board as possible and use a small zip tie to chinch the wires together and keep them in place. There's all kinds of Youtube videos on how to properly solder them in a series. Solder up a few to make sure you have the proper process figured out. NOTE: This particular set up won't need any resistors because the max voltage pull will not exceed the maximum voltage they can handle, which I believe is 14.4 volts. Apply power to make sure your creation lights up as it's suppose to. Run your panel wires through the small hole in the center of your mold. Suspend the LED board of the bottom of the mold approximately 1/2" and hot glue around the wires going through the mold to seal. The LED diode bulbs should be facing upward at this point. Weigh your epoxy resin and slowly pour into the form from the edges. This will allow any air trapped under the LED panel to escape. Best to vacuum chamber any air bubbles out of the resin but not mandatory. Fill the mold with resin until you still have at least 1/4 to 1/3 of the LED lens still showing and above the epoxy surface level. Let cure, pre-drill and counter sink 1 hole on each end of the fixture. Pre-drill holes in the hull where your installing them. Apply Life Seal or 3M 4200 in and around the holes. Apply liberally, (lots). Seal around all outer edges and let cure. (Make sure all wax and sealers are stripped from the area of install so the adhesive sealant can bond properly) Connect to powered switch and your finished. Good luck and have fun.
  4. RipTide

    FYI / Buffing Compound

    Gotta Love boats.
  5. RipTide

    FYI / Buffing Compound

    What your seeing is a result from the Aqua Blue 100 and the Nu Finish sealer I mentioned. This hull was BADLY oxidized. In fact, I don't think the original owner whom I purchased the boat from ever had it buffed. Boat is shining like a new vessel.
  6. RipTide

    Non-skid repair

    That MiniCraft mold pattern is Expensive. If, you have access to a vacuum chamber (small one, check out Youtube) get some Smooth On silicone rubber mold compound or equivalent. Find a good textured spot somewhere else on your deck. Coat area with a couple coats of spray on mold release after you have cleaned the surface thoroughly. Mix mold compound, vacuum to remove air, pour a thin coat onto the prepped are, let cure and peel off. Apply spray on mold release to the textured mold pattern. (2 coats minimum) Apply new gel coat to repair area and lay the pattern on top of the new gel coat. Lightly apply pressure with a roller to evenly imprint the area, let cure and remove your pattern.
  7. RipTide

    Gel coat problem. What caused this?

    Only way to make them disappear permanently is sand completely down to glass and re-gel coat. Running it through a few sand bars might help with the removal. As SCFD stated, it's water intrusion.
  8. RipTide

    FYI / Buffing Compound

    1 other suggestion. Love bug time is upon us. Their highly acidic and if they take a poo or die on the boat it will eat right through the wax, unless you have 4 or more coats applied. After I buff out I have been applying Nu Finish Once A Year sealant to the surface and then a coat of wax over that. The Nu Finish will protect your gel coat surfaces from becoming stained due the acidic levels of the bug stuff.
  9. RipTide

    FYI / Buffing Compound

    Per the instructions on the buckets Aqua Blue 100 Will remove scratches equivalent to W/D 600. Use 100% wool, 4 ply pad for best results. Apply w/ a wet sponge or cloth. (I just use a 3" chip brush but do it in the shade when possible.) Buffer speed - (1750-2400rpm's) If you apply the correct amount of compound (not OD-ing it) you won't need to mist the applied surface. On dark colored hulls I would recommend using a Lambswool pad. Softer and will leave less swirl marks if your not very experienced in operating a buffer. If you do end up with swirl marks, chase it with Aqua Blue 200 using a Lambswool (yellow) pad or a black waffled foam polishing pad. Everything else about the 200 is the same as the 100. White hulls are a lot more forgiving in noticeable swirl marks so the 200 won't really be necessary, unless your OCD, like myself.
  10. RipTide

    FYI / Buffing Compound

    Get a couple good quality wool round up pads. For the tight spots I use a Makita variable speed angle drill and 3" wool round up pads. To get the pads squeaky clean I hose them out and then throw them in a bucket of water for a little bit to finish softening up the baked on crust. Remove them from the bucket after a short while, spray with a hose, spin off the excess water and let dry in the sun.
  11. RipTide

    Anchor Line Size - 2200TE

    Hold off on buying a new anchor for awhile. You'll be surprised what you come across on the ocean floor....like anchors. Get them a good float bag to raise the spoils.
  12. RipTide

    FYI / Buffing Compound

    I've always used 3M products up until about a 2 years ago. Local Fiberlay rep whom I've known for 20+ years recommended it. Don't over apply the compound, that seems to be most peoples issues with a good product not working properly, that and not keeping their buffing pads cleaned. I use my pads until they start to get clotted up, then remove from buffer and spray out with a hose. Set to the side to dry out and throw a clean pad on the buffer to continue.
  13. RipTide

    FYI / Buffing Compound

    For you folks that have heavily oxidized hulls I STRONGLY recommend, Aqua Blue 100 = $47.30/gal http://www.fiberlay.com/prod-paintin...F25&startrow=0 Equivalent to 600 grit sandpaper to start & breaks down to a micro polish. Leaves a mirror finish when properly used. Start out slowly until it breaks down to the polish stage and increase the buffer speed to bring out the glow. I personally have used & still use it. Stuff "IS" the bomb at half the price of the rest of the products out on the market. All the boat yards and marinas around our neck of the woods use it. See you all again next year.
  14. RipTide


  15. RipTide


    If any of you all are regular users or are in need of any Anti-Bond 2015 check with your local West Marine store. Yep, I said WM. Apparently the Anti-Bond 2015 is being phased out for newer Anti-Bond and WM is clearancing out their entire stock of the large 11.5oz cans for $13.88 ea. You can't find this stuff anywhere for that price.
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