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Bruce J

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About Bruce J

  • Rank
    Maverick and Pathfinder Owner
  • Birthday 03/11/1956


  • Gender
  • Bio
    I fish mainly around Rockport. Prefer to fly fish for red on the flats, but will chunk just about anything anywhere.
  • Occupation
    oil & gas insurance broker
  • Interests
    fishing and guitar
  • Location
    Houston and Rockport,TX
  • Full Name
    Bruce Jefferis
  1. Prop size?

    Did you search through the Pathfinder Prop Discussion section here? There might be something there.
  2. NMEA cable run

    Thanks, Brad. Guess I will have to dig deeper in the bilge and console next time I get the boat out.
  3. Boat lift newbie

    I would think you could board at the bow once the boat is lowered so the front deck is level with the dock. But it’s hard to tell without the boat in the pic.
  4. Lynyrd Skynyrd Documentary on Showtime

    May It Last about the Avett Brothers is an outstanding documentary also. Have watched it twice this weekend.
  5. Boat lift newbie

    I’d also highly recommend a remote control for your lift motors if you don’t already have one. Or be sure the manual switch is in a place you can reach when you pull your boat back in. When I first got my lift, I had to get out of the boat to operate the switches. Then of course the boat would not want to stay in place. So I either had to tie it off carefully first or have a helper. With a remote it is super easy to handle the boat launch and recovery by myself. It’s not a cheap option, but it’s also priceless. Mine is a GEM remote.
  6. NMEA cable run

    I’m just hanging onto this subject by a thread, or maybe a wire. I think I understand the basic Lowrance/Yamaha NMEA cable idea, creating a backbone, etc. I’m not crazy at all about the prospects of fishing that cable from the motor all the way to my Garmin in the console. I think that would exceed my ability or patience. But Brad, you say I might have a Yamaha proprietary NMEA bus in the bilge area and in the console already. Would the one in the bilge already be linked to the engine? On your boat did the factory already run a cable from the bilge bus up to the console bus? Do you have a cable from that console bus going to your Garmin?
  7. Boat lift newbie

    I doubt you could use those existing bunks unless you could turn them on their sides and get some brackets which will raise them up some. As you can see in Frozen’s pic, they need to lift the boat high enough so that the V of your hull does not hit the crossbars. Also be sure the cross bar at the back of the lift (aft part of the boat) is a few inches lower than the front cross bar so that your boat will slope down to the back and drain water properly while on the lift.
  8. Whatever Happened to Squidmo?

    I told him his MBG buddies were missing him. He laughed and said he would check back in soon.
  9. Motorguide Xi5 handle

    Not sure what you mean by the install. You just clamp it on. Since I posted this originally a couple years ago, I don't know if that specific part i still available. I'm sure some other bike neck would still work, though.
  10. Whatever Happened to Squidmo?

    Doni is alive and well, but really, really busy with work and family life. I stay in touch with him every once in a while, but not nearly like we did a few years ago.
  11. NMEA cable run

    Brad, by “Yamaha bus”do you mean their NMEA 2000 backbone? I haven’t had any custom electronic work done, just what came from the factory. And there’s nothing plugged into the NMEA port on my Garmin.
  12. NMEA cable run

    I have a 2016 2400TRS and want to run a NMEA 2000 cable from my 250 SHO to my console. Is there a cord installed from the factory to pull the cable?
  13. HPX-T ideal motor height

    Hi ST, and I'll try to get to all of your questions. First, as some background, my first HPXT was a 2002 so it was set up much like yours, but with the 2-stroke Yamaha. My current one is a 2011, made in 2010, and it was the first year they came out with the revised deck layout, the smaller forward platform, a factory jack-plate option, etc. That's really why Brad and Skip were able to strong-arm me into a new boat. Just kidding on that, of course! But even with my '02, I ditched the factory "tall" platform and had one made by a local fabricator to sit in front of the motor. Even though I didn't have a jackplate on that boat, I really liked the more forward platform as it was a bit lower (about the height of the motor, and having the weight a bit more forward helped with the poling draft. I would highly recommend that if you plan to keep yours for a while. I didn't have a water pressure gauge on that older boat, but since I couldn't jack it up, I don't think I really missed it much at the time and didn't know any better. But now that I'm used to having one, I know it would still be helpful for other reasons like to know before your heat alarm goes off that your intakes get clogged up with grass or other debris, or to monitor the health of your impeller. I suspect that's a pretty simple and inexpensive addition (unlike adding a new platform or jackplate). On your boat, I doubt that raising it a few inches would present any real risk of overheating. When I didn't have a jackplate, I always ran my boat trimmed well out anyway and don't think I had any problems. I think being mounted in the highest position would be the place to start on an HPXT. If your overheat alarm goes off even when you're fully trimmed down, it's an easy fix to just drop the motor another notch. Regarding the DIY of moving your motor, I don't recall finding a video, but I just heard a description of exactly what I did, and it worked beautifully, even single-handed. I took a five gallon bucket and put a few boards across the top of it. Then put that under the skeg. I took out the top mounting bolts and loosened the lower two which are in slots, not holes, like the top bolts. So the motor is never completely disconnected from the transom. Then I went up to the jack stand (be sure you block your wheels!) and i raised the front of the trailer about a half-inch at a time until I could align the top bolt holes. If you had a spotter at the back of the boat, it would be even easier. Really the whole thing was much easier than expected. I did add the drain plugs myself, and absolutely recommend doing that. I had to bore out the factory hole just a bit as I recall to get them to fit, but it was well worth it. I love not having to hunt around for plugs or worry about dropping them into the drink. Regarding leakage into the transom, I too have read about others with this issue, but I have never done anything to check on either boat. My '02 was dry as a bone in the bilge. i rarely had any water in it at all. I could have had water in the transom, but never felt like I had an issue and didn't check. Same with my current boat. The factory installed the PowerPole for me, but I suspect any reasonably competent boat rigger could manage that for you. I love having the PowerPole for many reasons, although that too is a pretty pricey addition. I might have missed one or two of your questions as I didn't take much of an order going through them. Please try again with any others.
  14. 17 hpx tunnel

    Yes, I just put a Jack Foreman prop on my HPX-T with an F70 motor. I've only had it on for a few days, but it has definitely improved my hole shot. It's not a speed demon, as I suspect you know. Jack's props are all about getting up and running skinny.
  15. HPX-T ideal motor height

    Just to bring this one back to life a little bit, I made three changes to my HPX-T a few weeks ago. Although I'm still testing them out, I'm really happy with the results so far. The three changes were: 1. Raising the motor to the highest mounting position (it came from the factory in the lowest position), 2. Installing a New Water compression plate, and 3. Putting on a Jack Foreman prop (heavy cup, heavy blade 3 blade). Since I made all 3 changes at once, it's a little hard to say which ones get the proper credit, but I'm just glad it works well. The point in doing this was really to improve the shallow water jump up ability as the boat already ran as skinny as any sane person could want. Often it's easy enough to pole off the end of the flat or find a ditch or big pothole to jump up in, but we do have miles of very shallow flats in Texas where that can be a very difficult. Raising the motor was a no-brainer, and I don't know why I had never considered that. That gives me about 3 more inches of elevation when I need it with absolutely no downside that I can see. That was a pretty simple DIY project. I just blocked under the skeg with a 5-gallon bucket, then took out the top mounting bolts and loosened the bottom ones. Then I used the jack stand to the trailer to raise the bow, which dropped the transom and pushed the motor up to the new mounting position. Thank you for that clever solution, internet! If you do this, be sure to pull some extra slack in the lines going up to the motor so that it can still turn fully in each direction. I bought and installed a compression plate from New Water Boatworks in San Antonio on the advice of prop guru Jack Foreman. It is very pricey at $500 compared to about $300, I think, for a Shaw Wing, but it also comes in a nice gelcoat (black or white) finish and you can order it precut for the F70 (or whatever) motor which saves a lot of work. I hoped the compression plate would keep better water pressure at elevation and perhaps provide a little aft-end support for a flatter hole shot. Finally I added one of Jack's props that he said he had perfectly dialed in for the HPX-T/F70 combo. I've run a PT SWW3R in 14 pitch for years. It is a really good prop for running and maintains great grip at full elevation, but either because of the prop, or quite possibly operator error, I felt the prop would not grip as well on hole shot and and the stern would dig down. So what are the results so far? I had one initial concern when I found that the water pressure would drop off quickly above 3" on the jackplate. But at the new mounting position, that's really the equivalent of 6", or full elevation, on my previous set up. I very rarely ran that high anyway, so once on plane I feel I have plenty of elevation anyway at just 3" on the jack plate. But now I can still raise it to 6" for the hole shot when I need to. It takes me only a few seconds to get on plane, and then I can drop the plate back down to 3" for running out and I"m getting 20+ psi on the gauge. That works really well. I've only done a handful of shallow water hole shots so far, and none super-skinny, but it definitely feels much better. The prop really grabs right away at full 6" elevation and pushes the boat forward into a full left turn, where before i would have trouble hooking up and the boat tended to skid slowly rather than propel forward to get some planing speed. It also takes off without the big bow lift/stern dig I had before, which really helps. How much of this is credit to the prop and how much to the compression plate, I don't know. I could swap the prop back out just for some testing, but this one works and I'm too lazy to go to the extra work. The only other thing I have considered is a low water pickup like a Bob's nose cone. It wouldn't be necessary for shallow water jump ups, and I think I can already run shallow enough on plane with the factory intakes. But i think it would help to keep from getting the intakes clogged with floating grass which can definitely be a problem from the middle Texas coast and farther south. But enough is enough for now and I'll see how she does this summer before resorting to any more invasive surgery like that.