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Bruce J

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    133
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About Bruce J

  • Rank
    Maverick and Pathfinder Owner
  • Birthday 03/11/1956

Converted

  • Gender
    male
  • Bio
    I fish mainly around Rockport. Prefer to fly fish for red on the flats, but will chunk just about anything anywhere.
  • Occupation
    oil & gas insurance broker
  • Interests
    fishing and guitar
  • Location
    Houston and Rockport,TX
  • Full Name
    Bruce Jefferis
  1. HPX-T ideal motor height

    Hi ST, and I'll try to get to all of your questions. First, as some background, my first HPXT was a 2002 so it was set up much like yours, but with the 2-stroke Yamaha. My current one is a 2011, made in 2010, and it was the first year they came out with the revised deck layout, the smaller forward platform, a factory jack-plate option, etc. That's really why Brad and Skip were able to strong-arm me into a new boat. Just kidding on that, of course! But even with my '02, I ditched the factory "tall" platform and had one made by a local fabricator to sit in front of the motor. Even though I didn't have a jackplate on that boat, I really liked the more forward platform as it was a bit lower (about the height of the motor, and having the weight a bit more forward helped with the poling draft. I would highly recommend that if you plan to keep yours for a while. I didn't have a water pressure gauge on that older boat, but since I couldn't jack it up, I don't think I really missed it much at the time and didn't know any better. But now that I'm used to having one, I know it would still be helpful for other reasons like to know before your heat alarm goes off that your intakes get clogged up with grass or other debris, or to monitor the health of your impeller. I suspect that's a pretty simple and inexpensive addition (unlike adding a new platform or jackplate). On your boat, I doubt that raising it a few inches would present any real risk of overheating. When I didn't have a jackplate, I always ran my boat trimmed well out anyway and don't think I had any problems. I think being mounted in the highest position would be the place to start on an HPXT. If your overheat alarm goes off even when you're fully trimmed down, it's an easy fix to just drop the motor another notch. Regarding the DIY of moving your motor, I don't recall finding a video, but I just heard a description of exactly what I did, and it worked beautifully, even single-handed. I took a five gallon bucket and put a few boards across the top of it. Then put that under the skeg. I took out the top mounting bolts and loosened the lower two which are in slots, not holes, like the top bolts. So the motor is never completely disconnected from the transom. Then I went up to the jack stand (be sure you block your wheels!) and i raised the front of the trailer about a half-inch at a time until I could align the top bolt holes. If you had a spotter at the back of the boat, it would be even easier. Really the whole thing was much easier than expected. I did add the drain plugs myself, and absolutely recommend doing that. I had to bore out the factory hole just a bit as I recall to get them to fit, but it was well worth it. I love not having to hunt around for plugs or worry about dropping them into the drink. Regarding leakage into the transom, I too have read about others with this issue, but I have never done anything to check on either boat. My '02 was dry as a bone in the bilge. i rarely had any water in it at all. I could have had water in the transom, but never felt like I had an issue and didn't check. Same with my current boat. The factory installed the PowerPole for me, but I suspect any reasonably competent boat rigger could manage that for you. I love having the PowerPole for many reasons, although that too is a pretty pricey addition. I might have missed one or two of your questions as I didn't take much of an order going through them. Please try again with any others.
  2. 17 hpx tunnel

    Yes, I just put a Jack Foreman prop on my HPX-T with an F70 motor. I've only had it on for a few days, but it has definitely improved my hole shot. It's not a speed demon, as I suspect you know. Jack's props are all about getting up and running skinny.
  3. HPX-T ideal motor height

    Just to bring this one back to life a little bit, I made three changes to my HPX-T a few weeks ago. Although I'm still testing them out, I'm really happy with the results so far. The three changes were: 1. Raising the motor to the highest mounting position (it came from the factory in the lowest position), 2. Installing a New Water compression plate, and 3. Putting on a Jack Foreman prop (heavy cup, heavy blade 3 blade). Since I made all 3 changes at once, it's a little hard to say which ones get the proper credit, but I'm just glad it works well. The point in doing this was really to improve the shallow water jump up ability as the boat already ran as skinny as any sane person could want. Often it's easy enough to pole off the end of the flat or find a ditch or big pothole to jump up in, but we do have miles of very shallow flats in Texas where that can be a very difficult. Raising the motor was a no-brainer, and I don't know why I had never considered that. That gives me about 3 more inches of elevation when I need it with absolutely no downside that I can see. That was a pretty simple DIY project. I just blocked under the skeg with a 5-gallon bucket, then took out the top mounting bolts and loosened the bottom ones. Then I used the jack stand to the trailer to raise the bow, which dropped the transom and pushed the motor up to the new mounting position. Thank you for that clever solution, internet! If you do this, be sure to pull some extra slack in the lines going up to the motor so that it can still turn fully in each direction. I bought and installed a compression plate from New Water Boatworks in San Antonio on the advice of prop guru Jack Foreman. It is very pricey at $500 compared to about $300, I think, for a Shaw Wing, but it also comes in a nice gelcoat (black or white) finish and you can order it precut for the F70 (or whatever) motor which saves a lot of work. I hoped the compression plate would keep better water pressure at elevation and perhaps provide a little aft-end support for a flatter hole shot. Finally I added one of Jack's props that he said he had perfectly dialed in for the HPX-T/F70 combo. I've run a PT SWW3R in 14 pitch for years. It is a really good prop for running and maintains great grip at full elevation, but either because of the prop, or quite possibly operator error, I felt the prop would not grip as well on hole shot and and the stern would dig down. So what are the results so far? I had one initial concern when I found that the water pressure would drop off quickly above 3" on the jackplate. But at the new mounting position, that's really the equivalent of 6", or full elevation, on my previous set up. I very rarely ran that high anyway, so once on plane I feel I have plenty of elevation anyway at just 3" on the jack plate. But now I can still raise it to 6" for the hole shot when I need to. It takes me only a few seconds to get on plane, and then I can drop the plate back down to 3" for running out and I"m getting 20+ psi on the gauge. That works really well. I've only done a handful of shallow water hole shots so far, and none super-skinny, but it definitely feels much better. The prop really grabs right away at full 6" elevation and pushes the boat forward into a full left turn, where before i would have trouble hooking up and the boat tended to skid slowly rather than propel forward to get some planing speed. It also takes off without the big bow lift/stern dig I had before, which really helps. How much of this is credit to the prop and how much to the compression plate, I don't know. I could swap the prop back out just for some testing, but this one works and I'm too lazy to go to the extra work. The only other thing I have considered is a low water pickup like a Bob's nose cone. It wouldn't be necessary for shallow water jump ups, and I think I can already run shallow enough on plane with the factory intakes. But i think it would help to keep from getting the intakes clogged with floating grass which can definitely be a problem from the middle Texas coast and farther south. But enough is enough for now and I'll see how she does this summer before resorting to any more invasive surgery like that.
  4. 2400/250 SHO gas usage

    I have a 2016 2400TRS with a hardtop and a 250 SHO, and I’m running a 19” PowerTech prop. Trolling motor and 4 batteries. Just want to do a check-up on gas mileage, because it seems less to me than I would expect. There is no Yamaha Performance Bulletin for my set up. As an example, today I was running about 35mph at 4000 rpm and was getting about 3.1mpg. Half a tank of fuel, but otherwise just me and no gear on board. That’s about it’s most efficient level for a moderate cruise. If I bump it up to about 37mph at 4300 rpm, the mileage drops to about 2.8mpg. Top end for me is about 5600 rpm and 2.1mpg. How does that compare to what you guys are seeing? I have a few more gas questions for you, too: 1. What is the fuel capacity of a 2016 model 2400? I have seen a few different figures. 2. Does your Yamaha fuel gauge only show Available gas in 5 gallon increments? That’s what mine seems to do. 3. Have any of you hooked up a NMEA cable from your 250 to a Garmin to get better fuel flow data? I rarely let the gas get below about half anyway, but plan to do some longer offshore runs this summer and just want to be sure about my range.
  5. Vacuum lock

    That is exactly it! I’m a freaking idiot as I already had a standpipe for it in my bag of stuff that came with the boat. But somehow that never crossed my mind. Thanks!!
  6. Vacuum lock

    Yes, I have a factory plumbed front deck oval livewell on my 2016 2400TRS. There is a drain at the bottom and a fill tube about 2/3rds of the way up on the aft side of the well, but those are the only two entry/exit points. Once the drain is plugged, there is no other way out for the water.
  7. Vacuum lock

    Here’s a bit more information. I opened the large hatch on the deck and could pull the hose off the livewell fill tube. That finally released enough suction for me to open the livewell lid. The well was absolutely full of water, there was no air gap at all which explains how I couldn’t even budge the lid before. The plug was in, of course. So my first question is why the well was so full and the water didn’t go out the overflow tube? Well, on further inspection, there isn’t an overflow vent/tube in the front livewell, at least there isn’t one on mine. Shouldn’t there be one for a variety of reasons?? Is the fill tube supposed to double somehow as an overflow?? So what I’m thinking now is to drill a small whole in the side/lip of the hatch lid so that the hole is above the gasket and could take in some air. Is that better or worse than cutting out some of the gasket? Is there a more clever solution? in addition to all of that, I guess I’ll have to be more careful to keep the seacock closed and then fill the well more slowly/carefully when I do use it so it doesn’t overfill. any other thoughts?
  8. Vacuum lock

    Bringing this one back to life in case anyone else had this problem and has figured out another solution. I am a little reluctant to cut out a portion of the seal, although I guess that would work. I really have to get this fixed. The darn thing just locks up completely and no amount of pulling works. I need to take off the hinge again just to open it. I’ve tried opening and closing the valve, turning the pump on and off, etc but no joy.
  9. NMEA 2000 installation

    I have a 2016 Pathfinder 2400TRS with a 250 SHO and Garmin 7610. I plan to add a NMEA 2000 cable to the motor and connect it to the Garmin to view engine data, particularly fuel flow. I've done some searching for previous posts on here and Hull Truth and I think I have a decent idea of what work is needed to get this done. However, I'm wondering if anyone with my setup has already done this and whether you encountered any particular problems? Secondly, I believe I'd need to run a second special Yamaha cable from the motor if I also wanted to capture water pressure info on the Garmin. Does anyone know if that is true and if so is that also pretty straightforward to do? I'm not afraid to tackle a few DIY projects like this, but my enthusiasm might easily exceed my ability!
  10. Hpx t can I still order one.

    I bet my "old" girl just went up in value!
  11. HPX-T ideal motor height

    I think if you raised the motor more than a few inches you would not be able to trim/tilt the motor out fully. You might also have trouble taking the cowling off. You could measure and test those issues easily enough.
  12. Steering wheel wrap

    So it’s not even two bills, but to each his own of whether that’s worth it. I’d like to learn how to do that too just for fun, but those turk’s heads alone would almost certainly take me a couple hours and I’d probably still not do anywhere near as nice a job as on this wheel.
  13. Steering wheel wrap

    It looks like the three bills includes the wheel, knob, etc too, not just the wrapping.
  14. Rust spots

    Thanks everyone. This should keep me busy!
  15. Vacuum lock

    The small oval livewell on the front deck of my 2400TRS seems to get some sort of vacuum lock where I can’t get it open. The first time it happened I thought the latch had failed in a locked position somehow. I started to take off the hinges, and when I loosened one suddenly the lid could be opened normally. There was nothing wrong with the latch at all. I thought it was just a one-off weird thing, but now it’s “locked” again. I’m assuming it’s some sort of vacuum lock, but don’t know what to do about it. Anyone else run into this and figure out a clever solution. i should add that I’ve only noticed this while the boat is on the lift. Otherwise I would have tried running the pump to see if I could change the pressure in there.
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