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About JakeK

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  1. JakeK

    What did you do to your boat today?

    I turned an old screwdriver into an awl for that reason...have a couple of cars that the filter is tricky to get too. If it's hanging upside down, first poke a hole in it with the awl and let it drain. Then pierce it through the side and use the awl to remove it.
  2. JakeK

    Insurance for new boat

    Nationwide is a similar hassle when you are the victim. I've had to deal with them twice in car accidents where I was the victim and both times it was a horrible experience. I wouldn't ever buy insurance through them as a result.
  3. JakeK

    Insurance for new boat

    I've been with Progressive for years with multiple racing sailboats and my Hewes. I've had two claims - a collision and theft of a new sail. In both cases they were exceptional to deal with and it was four years between incidents so my deductible was zero to boot. They're also really easy with insuring obscure boats (like my Italian made carbon fiber A-cat catamaran sailboat) whereas I have previously spent hours on the phone with someone like State Farm trying to explain what the boat was and ultimately gave up when they couldn't find it in their database (which is why I'm with Progressive on all my watercraft).
  4. JakeK

    Improved Cheese Grater

    This is really great stuff - thanks to you all for coming up with this and posting it. I'm working through my summer round of improvements (removing bow cleat and replacing it with two side mounted collapsing bow cleats, mounting Ulterra where it SHOULD be, removing a rusty seat post mount on the foredeck, patching 18 (yes EIGHTEEN) holes where the PO had installed various trolling motors, regelcoating and matching the non skid over all those holes and where the bow cleat was where the seat post was, moving speakers, refinishing the foot, all the motor maintenance, installing MateSeries rod/cup holders, Yeti mount on the front deck for casting platform, etc.) on my new to me 2008 RF16. I digress wildly. I've been shocked by the amount of porpoising this boat does. It's manageable but I'm tired of explaining why I'm constantly mucking with the trim tabs to knowledgeable boat people that go out with me. I am completely enthralled with the boat, otherwise. My seachest is easily accessible while on the trailer (well, it's not blocked by a bunk anyway, I'm still crawling around on my back lol). After I get a chance to use the boat from this round of improvements, I'm jumping in on this. I'm an engineer with a CNC router in my garage and here's my plan. I'm going to fill the perimeter of the seachest with a fairing compound (it might require a quick and dirty cardboard and packaging tape mold to hold the schmoo in place). I then sand that fairing compound flush with the bottom of the hull. I'll make a router template on the cnc , hot glue that template to the hull, and reshape the inside perimeter of the sea chest with a handheld, bushing guided router, giving it an accurate machined profile and depth. Then, I'll cut a matching acrylic plate on the CNC router, drill the holes as prescribed here, and mount it to the new opening where it should fit tightly and be perfectly flush with the bottom of the hull without much more fuss! I can probably do this in less time than it would take to try and custom fit a new plate to the existing opening. I'm not that worried about finishing the perimeter since it's never ever seen...will be sure to use a good hard epoxy based fairing compound that can serve as the top surface without eroding. BTW, Maverick could do the same thing with an extra manufacturing step on future boats. Build in a little extra filler around the existing sea chest when laying up the hull, use a template to machine that opening (it would be slightly larger than the current opening without making a modification to the mold) and install a tight fitting machined plate that is flush with the hull.
  5. JakeK

    Livewell Drain cracked - solutions

    it's probably going to take some surgery but before you start cutting, know your target. I recommend a bore scope camera to really identify where the issue is. It could just be the flange at the stern and removing that fitting may give you access to everything you need to repair. I know this sounds like an advert (it's not) but I just bought one of these $28 borescope cameras to retrieve a $15 SS nut plate from the nether regions of my hull (and to have for every other time I could use one) - it works well...has a few attachments that come in handy too. I would put that in the drain tube and see if you can find exactly where the problem is. That said, my Hewes experience is limited - it's possible that this is a common issue and someone may chime in with a faster solution...fingers crossed! ;-). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MYTHWK4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  6. JakeK

    Older Hewes TM Battery Location

    My recently acquired 2008 RF16 had two trolling motor batteries crammed into the front storage compartment - which ate up my primary storage space and I wasn't a big fan of it. I wanted them in the center console but it was going to be tight. I literally got them in with about 1/16" to spare before I would have needed to start cutting fiberglass. I also built a mount for my charger to nestle in right next to the batteries. I found a great Attwood battery mount and that's really the only way installing the batteries like this was possible. here's a link to the battery mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K8DC01G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I put locktight on the starboard side rod/handles that hold the top clamp in place so it will remove the rod when I loosen the handle - that allows me to center up the battery under the hatch so I can remove the battery (which would be impossible otherwise with the rod in place as the mount intended. The batteries work great there - I just fished the new wiring up to the bow with a four foot fiberglass batten. I couldn't find any kind of a chase to run the wiring in. I finished it off with a charge port in the side of the center console to plug in an extension cord to power the charger. Original location of batteries (yuck!): Original space under the center console seat (practically unusable). Apparently a single 12V battery used to live in here but someone upgraded to a 24V trolling motor setup at didn't attempt to fit both batteries here like this madman. New battery mounts: TM Circuit breaker: designing battery charger mount in 3D (solidworks) - I have a CNC router in my garage and this is constructed from 3/4" PVC sheet and some delrin plastic rods I had laying around the shop. all done!:
  7. JakeK

    Hewes Redfisher 18 rod holder install?

    That's next! I'm hoping I can fit the 30 degree Mate series in that same spot (once I financially recover from the two I put on the bow, lol).
  8. JakeK

    Hewes Redfisher 18 rod holder install?

    If you want to go bonkers, I just mounted two Mate Series Cup/Rod Holders in my RF16 near the bow. I took a rough dimensional crossection and laid it out in 3D software (Solidworks) so I could decide what angle of the Mate Series I could fit. The 15 degree looked good. This is just in front of the rod storage tubes / cockpit front bulkhead. They're not cheap, but wow, they're like jewelry. After I recover from buying that pair, I'll probably cut a port in the rear storage compartment under the rear couch and investigate another pair to either side of the rear seating (possibly the 30 degree version). BTW, the green is PVA mold release I sprayed on the deck as I'm doing a lot of non-skid repair related to mounting the trolling motor where it needs to be and repairing 18 (yes, EIGHTEEN) holes where the previous owner has mounted various trolling motors over the last 10 years.
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