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About JakeK

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    deck swabber

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  1. JakeK

    Rust Remover

    These anodes started corroding super fast - I left the boat in the water (in the Keys) for a week and the degradation was definitely noticeable of the anode. I just checked Amazon where I bought them to give you guys a link (and a cautionary tale about making sure they're aluminum) and they either fixed the listing or I bought the zinc versions by accident because it clearly shows the zinc version under the part number I bought now. If using in saltwater, use the aluminum versions of these anodes....they're super affordable and will greatly extend the life of the $140 trim tab: Buying a qty of "1" gets you two anodes that are connected with a screw. I just drilled a hole in the trim tab and installed them with a button head cap screw from the bottom (same type of screw that connects the tab actuator). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003E1XV4E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1&psc=1
  2. JakeK

    Rust Remover

    You can wash it with acid to try and get a fresh, pure, layer of oxide on the surface to resist the rusting - but chances are that once the rust has developed, it's created micro fissures in all the crevices in the crystalline steel structures and the acid either can't reach those areas or the crevices create the ideal conditions for the corrosion to setup again. Once it's rusting, there isn't a way to completely passivate it again as far as I know. On things large enough to have an anode, install them. I had to replace one of my 10yr old trim tabs recently because there was only 1/2 of the hinge pin left due to corrosion when a $1.99 anode would have kept it like new. Before I ever splashed it, I put an aluminum anode on the replacement tab. The anode sheds electrons (as it corrodes) and charges the cathodic metal keeping it protected from corrosion.
  3. JakeK

    Braid Thread - Been a While

    I'm still a bit of a noob when it comes to these things - but the noise has everything to do with how many strands are in the braid (which directly relates to the cost). The power pro super slick is 8 strand and it's considerably smoother/quieter through the eyes than the standard Power Pro. I've been using Power Pro, Power Pro Super Slick, and Spyder Wire. Other than the noise in the lesser strand versions, they've all performed reasonably well for me. However, I did make the mistake of tying 60lb standard power pro directly to a steel leader rig and it snapped in the middle of the knot right at the swivel as I just set eyes on the sand shark in the surf. I won't tie braid directly to any hardware anymore. I don't know how the bass guys get away with it. We use some braided line at my day-work for things unrelated to fishing and the cheap bastards there found a Hercules line that is apparently a Japanese product. It's 8 strand, seems really smooth (upon a non-formal palming/fondling) and crazy affordable. While I'm not a fan of cutting corners (by any means), I figured I would order some and give it a whirl. I've been waiting three weeks for it so far but at $15 for 300meters of 10lb...well, as I type this, the whole idea sounds stupid....but I'll let you know how it goes ;-).
  4. JakeK

    Routine maintenance boat, trailer, and other

    I've only had my boat/trailer for a year (and the trailer was new when I bought the combo)...my EZ Loader has oil filled hubs - filled with gear oil and have a sight glass on the outside of the hub. I had "inspect/grease the hubs" on my checklist before a 1600 mile trip and those hub caps gave me a real head scratcher until I looked them up. My personal jury is still out on these but I like the concept in being able to immediately see contamination of the hub lube. I may pull them apart and inspect them at year 2 but for now they look like the day I bought it and I'm satisfied.
  5. JakeK

    Rust Remover

    definitely. Even good quality 316 stainless steel will lose it's passification and once it starts rusting, it won't quit. Remove, clean the stain, replace the rusty dusty.
  6. JakeK

    Gas tank placement Hewes Redfisher

    Sorry - I missed the part where you asked for RF18. I have an RF16 and I have two hatches up front. One large hatch and one anchor hatch.
  7. JakeK

    Gas tank placement Hewes Redfisher

    It wasn't 2008. My '08 has the tank in the middle of the boat under the center console.
  8. JakeK

    What did you do to your boat today?

    Use a Heat gun on the rubber rub rail. It raises the oils in the rubber back out to the surface and makes it look like new. You can obviously go too far with the heat so easy-does-it.
  9. JakeK

    What did you do to your boat today?

    I made a couple of these on my CNC with some starboard. Pitty that the 316SS rods I bought to space the upper rim didn't turn out to be 316 as they're starting to rust after several trips out. Looking at your cup holder - I kinda do like the idea of having them down low.
  10. JakeK

    NOCO Gen4 Install

    You either need a way to disconnect the battery AT the battery in my opinion (protect as much of the wiring after the battery as possible). You can do that by moving the switch or leave the switch where it is and installing an additional breaker/overload near the battery in it's new location.
  11. JakeK

    Completely plugging livewells - 18 MA

    my RF16 live well has an overflow at the top of the livewell, a drain at the bottom, and the pump inlet. My pump inlet has a separate valve on it that I can close off inside the tank. My overflow will allow water to flow into the tank when I decelerate and come off plane. I had to plug that too and bought these to accomplish that: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002L9FS9G/ref=twister_B07ST94KGH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
  12. JakeK


    I got the impression recently that there might be different platform heights on various redfishers. Make sure you compare the polling platform heights if you get motor dimensions from someone with the same engine. If you can find the Yamaha specs and compare it to the F90 four stroke (I'm pretty sure they are both in the same family of engine bodies), I would be happy to measure my F90 and my polling platform height if it will be of use.
  13. JakeK

    18’ Hewes Fuel line replacement

    I would pull two chaser lines through when removing the old tubing instead of pulling the new tubing through. If something were to come apart between the new and old tubing, you would be done. Pulling two chaser lines means you use one of them to pull the new tubing through and still have a backup if something goes awry...and, if you get to needing the backup, you could use the backup to pull two more through so you always leave yourself with a plan "B".
  14. JakeK

    RF18 Trolling motor battery location

    Yeah, many of them were filled with caulk and then gelcoated over (obviously, cracking), others were ~almost~ repaired correctly and some just had something crammed in them. I got to where I thought I had found them all but a count left me with an odd number...scratching my head, I finally found the last one and fixed them all correctly with a proper thickened resin, glass, and gelcoat.
  15. I'm in greenville, SC...I race sailboats often on Hartwell, Keowee, and Lanier and am a member at Keowee Sailing Club. I'm up there a good bit with my RF16. will PM you my email addy if you guys ever want to schedule a meetup.
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