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Bud_man

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About Bud_man

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    deck swabber

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  • Location
    Jupiter, FL
  1. Help with Yamaha Fuel Gauge

    Mine does that periodically. Go for a boat ride and after a few little wake bumps it may start working. I think sometimes the sender gets wacky. I've checked the wiring - ground and white? - but it doesn't seem to be the issue. If it doesn't come back to life, the sender may be done. The access is through the deck plate under the console. Bring your spider monkey and go easy on the bolts - soak them in PBBlaster if you see any corrosion. Hopefully it's just an occasional short-term fluke like mine. Good luck, Bud
  2. MA 18.5 vs Action Craft 1890

    You're obviously going to get some biased feedback here. I was looking at both boats too. What struck me about the MA was the sharp 'V' in the bow. After having the boat for 2.5 years, I can tell you that I grin every time I use it. The ride and performance is remarkable for an 18 ft boat. When you get a bit of wind chop coming in, just add a bit of trim tab and you can pretty much set your drink on the console - that sharp bow eats up the chop. Needless to say I couldn't be happier with my boat. Good luck with your decision and shopping. Cheers, Bud
  3. '06 MA 18.5 Prop Setup

    Wow - surprising to hear your experience eFlat. I've been wanting to switch over to the 4 blade OFX from PowerTech TRO4 model to improve hole shot and bad slip when turning. Other posts I've seen suggest that the OFX can be a cure all. Maybe not always. I have a 2000 MA hull, a HPDI 175 vmax, and a jack plate with the bolts in the top motor mount holes (lowest motor). With a 4 blade TRO 20 pitch I can touch mid 50's spinning around 5200 rpm depending on load and trim so it seems to be a good pitch for that motor (max rpm is 5500). I think the prop is slipping/ventilating when the jack plate is above 2 or so. Hole shot is decent, but not as great as great as I think it could be. I'm not a speed freak so would rather maximize low and mid range performance. The PowerTech guys suggested I try an OFX4-18p. Regarding the flat ride, I think that may be how these hulls ride. When I see photos, the boat seems to be at a good angle. But I agree, it sure 'feels' flat. On the jack plate, I like the flexibility it offers when idling in shallower waters. But despite research, I don't feel like I know how to properly use it - I notice any meaningful changes when underway. I hate seeing guys blasting over flats and shallow water - just because the prop doesn't get ripped off, doesn't mean the habitat isn't getting damaged by prop wash. If I find an OFX4-18p I'll post a comparison. Good luck, Bud
  4. Expired Flares

    Check with your trash collection service - often they have "household hazardous waste" drop off locations. Ditto on the 4th - try practicing lighting them in complete darkness (no flashlight). It's bit trickier especially when you haven't looked at them in a while. Cheers, Bud
  5. Porpoising Redfisher

    Maybe I missed it, but what is your battery setup? When I bought my 16 Bayfisher/Redfisher the guy had a 27 and a 24 series battery (almost 100 lbs!) in the aft compartment. Swapping those out (for tiny Odyssey batteries) made a big difference in performance and squat. On the prop, with Marcus' guidance, I went to a lower pitch PowerTech SCD to maximize hole shot and it completely transformed the performance of the boat compared to the previous yami 3 blade. The right prop makes all the difference in the world. Marcus will get you dialed in! Good luck! Bud
  6. Lake O Red tide!

    Capt.Troy - thank you for bringing the "rest of the story" to this thread. Regrettably the news often fails to tell the whole story. We are all part of this problem. 15-20+ inches of rain during the month of May, across millions of acres of the state, adds up to mountains of water that has to come off the landscape so our houses, roads, shopping centers, farms, etc. don't flood. Unfortunately, the environment, and the resource we all enjoy, takes the hit. I'll second the recommendation on The Swamp (Michael Grunwald) - a great book that tells the story of how we got here. No easy solutions to fix it... with 21 million of us here. Sad stuff
  7. Safety

    I wanted to keep my new air horn off the deck of the console and easily accessible - used some "industrial" velcro from the big box store with the sticky back and secured it to the inside of the console door. It's working great - easy access, out of the salt spray, and off the deck. We had a scary one last weekend... I was helping my son fight a big bonita 2-3 miles out and this guy in a big boat must have had his head in his electronics and nearly ran us down. My wife grabbed the horn and got his attention - his quick course correction and surprised look spoke volumes. This is the second time we've had this happen. Just like on the roads - clearly people aren't paying attention so don't assume they will avoid you. Be safe and have fun! Cheers, Bud
  8. Caulk In Wide Gunwale Channel?

    Short answer is - it's a pain, but it looks great after you replace it. I took the brute force approach and cut out the old caulking with a razor knife, plastic scrapers, etc. After you get the big chunks out the plastic scrapers do a good job of peeling away the thin stuff. Then I taped the edges near where it curves down - basically the width of the bead I wanted to end up with. I bought a fresh tube of 3M Marine Silicone and gave it a good, heavy bead. To smooth it out I pressed down hard against the tape with you finger, being careful to not to rework it too much and mess it up. You'll get the hang of it. Carefully peel off the tape before it cures and let it set up. The whole process probably took me around 2 or 3 hours. It will look so good you'll wish you didn't do it sooner. I find that fixing up those little details, like moldy caulk and rub rail rope, really roll back the clock and make your rig look sharp. Good luck! Bud
  9. Power Tech OX4R18p

    He sold it. I tried to get it but missed out.
  10. Battery

    I don't know who makes the battery. Their website says they are an EnerSys company. I learned about them at the Odyssey booth at the Miami boat show probably 16 or 17 years ago. The salesman gave me the pitch about how they supplied the military/coast guard for years, the purest lead, resilience to deep discharge, charging speed, power to size, blah, blah. At the time we had a 16 Hewes with a 90 two stroke and they recommended a PC680 - a ridiculously small battery. I cautiously gave it a try thinking it would be nice to lighten the load in the rear compartment. I think that battery lasted 7 or 8 years and I've been a believer ever since. When we moved to the Maverick and bigger motor the Odyssey sales guy suggested the PC925. I've gotten more than a few strange looks when people look in the battery compartment - it's like 7 inches square by 5 inches high. After 2 years it still holds voltage like the day I got it. For $150 at 4 Wheel Parts I think it's tough to beat. The higher capacity trolling motor batteries are a pile of money though...
  11. Battery

    No shortage of opinions on this issue... I'm a huge fan of the Odyssey PC925 for an isolated starting battery. They are tiny but mighty. In nearly 15 years of using and recommending them I have never heard of one lasting less than 6 years. It spins my 175 HPDI like a top and other friends are using them to start their F150's. Then put all your other (house) stuff on a separate circuit and battery - maybe a group 24 deep cycle in the console. Good luck with whichever route you take. Cheers, Bud
  12. switches falling apart

    Not sure what type of switch you have, but I often get electronic parts from Newark/Element 14 (LINK). Sometimes it can be a challenge to find just what you need but the filters really help. I've bought high quality switches, boots, connectors, etc. all at super low prices and quick shipping. Good luck, Bud
  13. Is one battery enough?

    An extra battery does not always mean a lot of extra weight. I really like the piece of mind knowing my starting battery hasn't been beat down by pumps, stereo,, lights, etc. I'm a huge fan of the smaller sized, lighter Odyssey batteries. I'm running an Odyssey PC925 in the rear hatch for my starting battery (175 HPDI Vmax), and another PC925 in the console for my house battery. You could also bump up to a bigger group 24 battery for the house if you wanted to have ample capacity. On my 16 Hewes I ran a tiny PC680 for starting my 2 stroke 90 and the PC925 for the house. The Odyssey's aren't cheap, but in the 8+ batteries that friends and I have owned, all have lasted more than 6 years. A nice perk on the "newer" Yamaha's is a charging wire for the accessory battery. This system (on the motor) handles topping off your starting battery then switches over to charge your accessory battery, and keeps them isolated when the motor is off. Good luck and enjoy the new ride! Cheers, Bud
  14. Off topic....... Costa Rica car rentals

    Just got back from a trip there. Great place! My recommendation is to take a taxi and/or get a driver. Taxi's are everywhere and your resort/hotel/property owner likely has arrangements for transportation. A private van from San Jose to/from Los Suenos (1.5 hour trip) was only $60 booked through the resort (which likely included a resort premium). In general their driving style is entirely different and the probability of an accident is real. Plus, you have a local helping you get to the good spots and keep you safe. Costa Rican's are very proud of their country and tourism and want visitors to have a great experience. Don't be an ugly American, tip generously, and you will have a fantastic trip. Have fun! Cheers, Bud BTW - fishing was "slow" - we caught 4 big sailfish and 20 small yellowfin tuna over 3 days of fishing.
  15. Seadek install

    I finally had some time to tackle my Seadek install in the cockpit only. The nonskid was shot and figured the Seadek would be nice. Also scored the Mica colored material for 50% off on black Friday deal - around $200 total, and picked up a 45 degree bevel foam cutter (Link). I made the mylar template quite some time ago (and then got sticker shock from the pros). We did some practice cuts and got a better result cutting through the bottom. With the cutter I had to work about an 1/8th inch inside the line. No doubt the curves are very difficult. We found if you cut the curves during the long cuts they came out better than trying curve straight cuts later. Maybe the blade binds up the material a bit. Fortunately the material sands fairly well and cleans up some of the messiness. Sticking down the big pieces is challenging too - it was hard to see if there was any variation in the alignment. Strangely the material seemed to shrink almost a 1/2 inch on the long runs after peeling the paper. All in all it came out pretty good. Definitely not as sharp as the pros with laser dimension tools, CAD cleanup and 4D CNC machines, but then again several hundred dollars less for a long afternoon of work. It seems there is some variation in color between the rolls. Good enough - time to fish! Cheers, Bud Sorry, pics rotated for some reason.
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