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Bud_man

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About Bud_man

  • Rank
    deck swabber

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    none
  • Location
    Jupiter, FL
  1. Seadek install

    I finally had some time to tackle my Seadek install in the cockpit only. The nonskid was shot and figured the Seadek would be nice. Also scored the Mica colored material for 50% off on black Friday deal - around $200 total, and picked up a 45 degree bevel foam cutter (Link). I made the mylar template quite some time ago (and then got sticker shock from the pros). We did some practice cuts and got a better result cutting through the bottom. With the cutter I had to work about an 1/8th inch inside the line. No doubt the curves are very difficult. We found if you cut the curves during the long cuts they came out better than trying curve straight cuts later. Maybe the blade binds up the material a bit. Fortunately the material sands fairly well and cleans up some of the messiness. Sticking down the big pieces is challenging too - it was hard to see if there was any variation in the alignment. Strangely the material seemed to shrink almost a 1/2 inch on the long runs after peeling the paper. All in all it came out pretty good. Definitely not as sharp as the pros with laser dimension tools, CAD cleanup and 4D CNC machines, but then again several hundred dollars less for a long afternoon of work. It seems there is some variation in color between the rolls. Good enough - time to fish! Cheers, Bud Sorry, pics rotated for some reason.
  2. Hi All, Happy Thanksgiving weekend! Curious what deals you guys found out there? Here are two that I jumped on: SeaDek has 50% off their retail items at SeaDek.com Cabellas has a Fulton XLT trailer winch from $78 down to $50 and free shipping Enjoy your weekend! Cheers, Bud
  3. My 2000 Bayfisher 16 had a poly tank and would get stinky with all the hatches closed. There should be an access plate on the deck under the console so you can first verify a poly tank. I used to prop open the rear starboard hatch with a tennis ball and it provided enough ventilation to prevent the buildup of fumes. Good luck! Bud
  4. If you enjoy fishing shows . . .

    Thanks for the heads up! Got it running on my Roku and Fire Stick - the perfect rainy day solution. The footage in the Silver Kings show is absolutely spectacular! Way to Maverick for helping make it happen. I hope those keep coming. Cheers, Bud
  5. Gauge Readout Restoration

    Eric hooked me up too and I'm very pleased with the results. The former owner replaced the tach, but my speed/fuel/volts was terribly faded - just about unreadable. It's sure nice to finally see it without squinting, tilting my head, glasses on/off... The photo was taken in low light so you see the nice blue/green glow of Eric's refurb - nicer, in my opinion, than the new gauge. It's a great option versus a new expensive gauge, or trying to do it myself as it looks tricky. Cheers, Bud
  6. Thank You Marcus & PT Props !!!

    I'll pile in on this love-fest... Marcus and PowerTech are the real deal. He worked with me on figuring out a prop for my 16 Bayfisher/90 smoker with a goal of maximizing torque and hole shot. Ended up in a 4 blade SCD 14 pitch that COMPLETELY transformed the performance of the boat. I knew that props were important, but didn't realize how big a difference the right prop could make. I went from struggling to get on plane with 2 big guys in the back, a full livewell, gear, fuel, etc. using a standard 3 blade prop, to "hang on", effortless hole shots with the PowerTech. I'm looking forward to dialing in my new to me 18MA with the 175 HPDI. Maybe an OFX4 in my future?
  7. Hi All, Any tips for parking, stuff not to miss (besides the MBG exhibits!), etc. at the boat show this year? I was thinking of trying the water taxi - supposedly more and larger capacity taxis this year. Any suggestions? Thanks, Bud
  8. Anyone know the steering cable length for a 16' Bayfisher?

    Here is a link to an earlier thread on cable lengths for the 2000 16 Bayfisher. Not sure what year you have. Mine was binding up badly too. Upon inspection during the switch to hydraulic (more below) I think it was the helm that was the culprit - badly worn and loose components that were binding up. Because of the sharp bend in the steering cable as it comes through the steering well and interference with the poling platform, I was certain there would be no way to switch out my cable system without pulling the motor. I would have to unbolt the motor, swing it counter clockwise to feed the cable into the motor then carefully put it all back in place. For these reasons, and my love of hydraulic systems, I switched over to the Uflex GoTech steering system. I just cut off the steering rod section of the old cable to get it out. The Uflex system was pretty easy to install and is a dream to drive. My local boat supply shop sold me one for a better price than a 25% discounted one at Overtons. One issue is that if I trimmed the motor all the way up it would bind where the engine bolts are and it would likely damage the steering. The Uflex guys said to flip the steering bracket on the motor and I should be good. I just haven't done it yet. Good luck! Bud
  9. 2002 RF16 fuel capacity

    Reasonably sure it's 30 gallons Check out the Owners manuals and brochures under the Hewes section. Here is a link to the brochure titled 2001-2007: http://www.mbcforum.com/brochures/hewes/2001-2007_Entire_Hewes_Brochure.pdf Cheers, Bud
  10. Hewes 18ft bayfisher repower

    Another option is a major rebuild of your old motor and that way you keep the weight down and the boat balanced the way it was designed. You will give up some fuel economy, but you won't have as much squat in the stern, have the nice 2 stroke torque, and not have to deal with the repower fitting, etc. A thread a few years ago I found a thread that had good things to say about Hydro Tec marine for powerheads - I saved the site for when mine pops. Apparently you send off your old powerhead and they send you a beautifully rebuilt one. See: http://www.yamaha-rebuild.com/index.htm Bolt on some other new/rebuilt components and you could end up with probably a near showroom condition motor for far less the cost, and brain damage. Tough decision.... Good luck! Cheers, Bud
  11. Toggle switch boot cover

    I picked some up from Newark/Element14 (newark.com) but I can't seem to find my order info to tell you which one. If you search "switch boot" you will see their ridiculous selection. I'm guessing it's one of the two below. I'll keep trying to find my order info and will repost if I can find it. They are very nice - brass thread and great price. Not sure about UV stability. They have a variety of materials that might last longer. But for these prices you can replace them every year or two. http://www.newark.com/nte-electronics/54-905/switch-boot/dp/32M5614 (I'm thinking it was this one) http://www.newark.com/multicomp/mcw-70a/waterproof-cover-black-toggle/dp/05W3219 (this one is metric?) Good luck, Bud
  12. Uflex hydraulic steering to 2-stroke Yamaha 90

    Sounds good! Thanks for the feedback guys. There is an option to switch the ram bracket to the other side if there is a problem with the wire harness. But, I'll have to redo the hydraulic lines - ugh. I'll give the engine bracket flip a try the next time I get over to my uncle's house. Thanks, Bud
  13. Hi All, I just installed the Uflex GoTech hydraulic steering kit before passing my old 16 Hewes to my uncle, but I don't have enough clearance to trim the motor all the way up. I spoke with the folks at Uflex and they said to flip the motor bracket and install it to the aft hole (versus the forward like I did). But after studying the orientation, I'm not so sure this is going to work because it doesn't seem there will be enough room to mount the ram arm bracket to the bottom of the flipped engine bracket, and if I connect to the top of the flipped engine bracket it seems the ram arm will bind on the curved engine bracket when the motor is turned. Has anyone connected this system to a 2 stroke 90 Yamaha? How did you do it? Many thanks, Bud
  14. Help me pick a boat

    Just made a similar switch from a 16 Hewes (smooth side) to an 18 MA, both 2000 vintage. While I feel the 16 Hewes is a fantastic hull (especially for its size), the MA is a significant step up in ride quality. It's ability to eat chop is remarkable for only an 18 ft boat. Mash the tabs a bit and set your drink on the console - ok a bit of exaggeration - but it's outstanding. The 18 lappy is also a great boat. Never have been on an 18 smooth side. A couple of considerations with the MA: 1) the cockpit space is less than I expected - the designers opted for storage and bigger casting platform. But there is plenty of room for our family of three; And 2) with the big, heavy motor (175) the squat is more than I expected. From studying pictures it seems you can improve that with trolling motor batteries in the designated space in the forward hatch. Surprisingly haven't had a problem with wave wash - the boat seems to bob right through the waves/wakes. So far, my favorite aspects of the MA is ride quality with the sharp, higher bow and the ridiculous power to weight ratio - it's like driving a sports car. Enjoy your sea trials and good luck with your decision. Cheers, Bud
  15. SeaDek vs. Non-Skid

    I received the Aqua Traction samples today (no charge). I requested the lighter colors only. Below is a photo of them on the deck, inside the garage, under fluorescent lighting. The white dot pattern looks like it goes with my gelcoat pretty well (the boat previously lived on a lift). It's lighter but in the same color tone. Next I want to check it outside in the sunlight. I really like the feel of the material and larger dots - a bit spongier than the SD. Anxiously waiting on a quote...
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