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General disarray

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About General disarray

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    weekend warrior
  1. 16" screen on 2200TE center console?

    On my 2003 2200V I couldn't imagine fitting it without either A) modifying the console to increase height or B) Mounting it on the gimbal on top of the dash
  2. Hatch seal dimensions

    How did you feed the backer rod in? Even using the 5/8" the 1/4" backer rod seems like it would be difficult to feed it through with only and guessed 1/16" play
  3. Replacement decals which color?

    Mines the fighting lady yellow and I heard it’s terrible and when you buff it mottles so you basically have to wet sand down and buff the entire side so I’ve been gun shy
  4. Replacement decals which color?

    What did the pathfinder logo run you? Also was there a difference in color on the hull?
  5. 2200V position on trailer

    I would think for the entry level one. I would add stainless, front bunks, and spare tire.
  6. 2200V position on trailer

    If it helps, the trailer I have is the a2244b only I dont have brakes. http://www.continentaltrailers.com/aluminum-a.htm It has 2 #3500 lb axles and to give you some idea of the boat positioning the back of the boat is about 12-24" off the back of the trailer with the helm and leaning post directly over the axles. The bunks extend back to match the transom perfectly - perfect to the point that the edge of the bunk touches the leading edge of my trim tabs. Then the bunks left to right only have about 1/2" of TOTAL play left and right between the strakes. I am only telling you all this because I think you will be able to tell if the trailer is setup for the boat or not. If its not I'd buy a new one then sell the one thats currently under it. To do it right you would be looking at about $3500-4000 for a decent aluminum tandem with stainless hardware. If you are towing any major distance the comfort of knowing you have something solid under it that you dont have to worry about is worth the money itself.
  7. 2200V position on trailer

    You can get one that does however a tandem will pull and handle MUCH better. If if you don’t pull far you’re fine if you’re trailering long distances it would be nicer
  8. 2200V position on trailer

    My bunks meet the transom exactly. Now the bunks hang back from the frame about 12” or so but 100% of the boat is supported
  9. Spare tire mount (Ameritrail)

    Pretty sure their OEM is just tie down engineering. At least on the items I called on they were tie down has a nice galvanized one that ubolts to the frame complete with spare hub and spindle for $150.
  10. Cheese grater question

    Nice work on that. What did you use to drill the holes a jig?
  11. Cheese grater question

    Thanks for sharing will be good to be marked in here. First time Ive seen that. For the record how mine worked out was: Obviously remove old piece and clean up all of the old sealant. 1) Visibly lined up which holes work and which dont (I was able to get the 4 corners but not the centers) 2) Drilled and cleaned the 2 center holes (I did not drill all the way through. That part seems a bit excessive and I dont get the gain there). Filled the 2 with six10 (Per West Systems it was the perfect product for the use). I used a long nozzle syringe to fill from the back forward. 3) Once that dried (I gave it 4 days) I attached the new grater (test fit), ran the screws in and then marked the new holes. Drilled those out 4) Used masking tape to mask the border around the hull and then 1/4" in around the grater (face side) 4) Pumped 4200 into each screw hole using a syringe (all 6) 5) Put a bead of 4200 around the entire new grater (inside) 6) Screwed and tightened down the new grater. 7) Added/smoothed 4200 around entire parameter for a smooth transition. Ensured no gaps all the way around. 8) Removed tape, cleaned up and gave it 24 hours before launching. Yes the end product is a little inset (about 1/8"). I had the same idea to add washers but I figured between fumbling with them and concerns about getting a seal in-between and around the spacing washers it would be more headache than its worth. Honestly the 1/8" inset doesnt look bad. Maybe I did it wrong but I took it out and everything still works like a champ or better than before. With the screws I dont see the reason for 5200. Disclaimer - I am by no means an expert or anything close to one.
  12. Cheese grater question

    Mine is the old plastic (or PVC) version. The areas around the screws had cracked through so it was about to rip off. I would actually think your pumps would run better at speed. Heck, if my valves were open mine would push water through with the pumps off. Does yours pump at low speed or off? Do you have the new style grater?
  13. Cheese grater question

    Yeah I was going to six10 the old ones which is a full epoxy resin.
  14. Cheese grater question

    Well plan went a little sideways. Decided to clean it up and prep - the center holes are so far off to the sides the hole for the screw would be half on the plate half off. i am thinking six10 the center holes and redrill. Thoughts? I wouldn’t need to gel over those since I’m bedding it right?
  15. Cheese grater question

    I noticed the new steel grate is thinner and the center holes don’t line up. What’s everyone doing? I was thinkg to redrill the holes he holes in the stainless to match then bed the entire edges in 4200 and wipe smooth to smooth the transition from the hull to the grater