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  • Birthday 07/02/1950


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  • Occupation
    Power generation engineer
  • Interests
    Aviation, fishing, wife, and grandkids
  • Location
    Orange Park and Homosassa FL
  • Full Name
    Mike Kilcoin

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496 profile views
  1. What did you do to your boat today?

    Yeah.....a real class job! Congrats! I wish someone could coach me over drilling holes in my hull! I can drill in someone else’s boat, but not mine!
  2. Prop and rpm

    Geeviam, You are a wise man! IMO, you did everything right. You’re within specs and you have a prop that makes the boat do what you want. Back in the day, I supplied props to a medium sized boatbuilder in NE Fl. Engineering was having a hard time getting a brand new model to perform. Engineering said the boat weighed 15,200 lbs. Marketing advertised it as a 15,000 lb boat. lb boat. Engines were sized for a 15,000 lb boat. When difficulties arose on one boat, and after three sets of trial props, they weighed it in the travel lift and found the boat weighed about 16,500 lbs. They had me reduce the pitch 2 inches on the delivery props, and gave it to the new owner. Six months later, the owner brought me his props and said he couldn’t make WOT and told me about CAT and the boatbuilder spent the last three days trying to “tune” the engines. I told him that we couldn’t remove any more pitch because 2” is the max from originally casted. (Thank goodness for stamping job numbers on props!). I told him to haul the boat and weigh it. He did, and found the boat now came in at a shade less than 18,000lbs. A lot of fishing gear, TVs, booze in the lockers, etc. Bought a new set of props with 4 less inches of pitch than was delivered, and he was happy. Happens more than you would think.
  3. Prop and rpm

    If those are the only markings on the barrel, then, likely, it’s never been to a shop. For defensive purposes, job numbers are usually stamped. Four or five digits. If you are starting over, then send the prop to Josh/Marcus and ask them to send it through the shop, and tell you what you got, good or bad. If good shape, PT will likely steer you to to check the motor and especially the tach. Have the tech check the tach for accuracy against a handheld. Tachs do go bad and they need to know how many cylinders to “read”. Usually easy fix.
  4. Prop and rpm

    Sorry, you’re quick. I edited my response while you were replying.
  5. Prop and rpm

    Seems you need a lower pitch, and possibly a larger diameter if 5000 is WOT. I assume you are talking to Josh or Marcus there. They will do their best to specify a prop and trust them. They will do you right. I’m going through the same process. I “had”a Powertech 3 blade that I sent to a prop shop for inspection. They reconditioned it, and, in the process, changed the rake. I lost 900 rpm. I sent it to Proptech and they said they could NOT fix it. SCRAP! So, they have specified a 4 blade for me , and pointed me toward a few of their dealers that have an exchange program, sort of pay for the prop, try it once, and if wrong, they will swap it out for the “right” one. As long as they can sell it as new to someone else. Fair deal. These modern props are like Swiss watches. When they work, they are fantastic, but bend a blade........ They are not easy to fix either. Anyone ever repaired your PT prop? That may be another problem. Look for Prop shop numbers stamped on the barrel. Your prop might have been the perfect prop for your boat in a new and clean condition. If repaired, it might have less cup, cup positioned wrong, not a 21 pitch anymore, diameter and rake off, etc. If you have no idea if it ever visited a prop shop, bite the bullet and start over.
  6. Prop and rpm

    I more or less agree. Actually, the 5 to 6 k rpms is the WOT range the motor should be in order to keep valve train loads at design standards. Your manual will also state the motor rating and will be like XXX HP @ XXXX RPM. On my F250, its a 5 to 6 k operating range and 250 HP @ 5500 rpm. That’s the peak of the HP curve and max output. Any prop at WOT in the stated range should not be detrimental to the motor, and/or the longevity of the motor. Be careful about max rpm. You don’t need a prop that hits the max, although you may want to. Modern motors have rev limiters which prevent an over speed condition. They are usually set at about 5 per cent above max. A heavy boat will want to be closer tho the max, requiring a flatter pitch. If the pitch is too flat you will hit the max, and the rev limiter will stop the acceleration to avoid over speed. With out the limiter, you could go to 7 k rpm, which is not good for the motor ( outside valve train load limits) Modern motors and props are not the same as the 80s and 90s. Props are all progressively pitched with each prop manufacturer now having their own prop geometries. Pick out a prop manufacturer or prop shop that has a lot of experience on your boat and motor combination. They will give you the performance you want. Their experience is valuable. For instance, Pathfinders tend to like larger diameters, and large blade areas. Most( but not all) owners really like the Four blade props. Every boat motor combination is different. A proptech 15x21 will deliver slightly different performance than a Merc or Yamaha of the same size and diameter. I tend not to do what others are doing, rather make the boat do what I want it to do, staying inside the OEMs design criteria, sticking with a prop manufacturer. And I owned a prop shop for 20 years. Hope this helps
  7. What did you do to your boat today?

    Nicecast, Could you give a little more description on how you tested each plug boot? Between the boot and the plug? Between boot connector and ground? Etc. I’m doing plugs this weekend on my F250. Many Thanks!
  8. Action Welding and Marine kudos

    Thanks, just the words I needed. I’ll call them today.
  9. Action Welding and Marine kudos

    Billablehours, That’s exactly what I need. I’m in Homosassa, so a professional install is not in the cards. Can you be more specific on the “not very hard” on the self install. i.e. all hardware included, backing plates necessary or straight screws, etc. Also what you paid. You can PM me if you don’t want to say publicly. Many thanks in advance.
  10. T top for sale- sold

    Pics and price to kilcoin@gmail.com I have a 08 2200te with narrow console. Thanks
  11. 8" speakers in console?

    BradM, I don’t mean to highjack this topic, but...... Any chance for a pic or description of how you placed the dynamat? Just around the speaker backs, or the entire console interior where practical? Big difference? This is a great idea!
  12. Need Advice on Boat Lift Bunks...

    PGIPath,, i am assuming you have a cable lift. I you have a direct drive, some of the below won't apply. I installed a new lift last spring and was also new to the power lift world. Although not a 25 hybrid, I first called Ray at MBG to get some advice. He said no matter what, support the hull at the stringers, and he told me where they were. On a 22TE, slightly outside of the Center console. I asked about of the CG, b/c the lift manufacturer said to place equidistant from the four cables as possible., and Ray said approx. at the steering wheel. I worried about drainage, but the installer told me the bow cables were slightly shorter than the stern cables, so as to have a "natural" slope to the stern. So he adjusted the bunk spacing, and the placement of the pair to get the boat close to the dock for boarding, which ended up with the CG off center on the cradle. No problem he said. I verified with the lift manufacturer....OK. Then he adjusted the PVC poles to "wedge" the sides to stop the boat at the same place every time. He cautioned me ......NEVER to power the boat on or off the cradle. If at low tide the cradle is on the bottom and the boat is not completely floating .......wait for more water. I had that situation arise and later had to turn the boat around at the dock and do some blowing of bottom sediment out from the lift. Problem solved. Lateral level is controlled by turning off one side motor and running the other up or down with a level on the stern. DONE!!! Works perfectly. My advice on an old lift is to run the cradle all the way down, and rewind cables tight on the axels, and check your cradle/cables to make sure no one messed up the placement of the short ones at the bow. Use a level to check for the natural bow to stern "drop" for drainage. Call Ray and the lift manufacturer for placement advice. I got the remote control and well worth the money. If you don't have, you can buy on the internet for about $400 plus an electrician to install. I did not get the limit switches for auto up and down, but wish I had purchased. Maybe next year. Hope this helps! Congrats on your new waterfront home and beautiful rig!
  13. Gemlux Deck Hardware Sale

    Got my question answered by the dealer. 5 hatches are the 2 1/2" cutout and the anchor locker is a 2"cutout on my PF. I got all with extended shaft. I guessed on that part! Hope I'm right!
  14. Gemlux Deck Hardware Sale

    Guys, Does anyone know which compression latches are on '08 2200te? The boat is locked in the dealers yard for service so I can't measure. I do want some spares if possible. If no one knows, I'll buy some of each size, 2 and 2 1/2.
  15. Pf 22 trailer bunk fitting

    X2.....In setting up my new lift for my PF, I called Ray at MBG. Without knowing the year, he flatly stated to support on stringers, which on their boats, are located directly below the outside edges of the console. Hope this helps,