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large marge

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About large marge

  • Rank
    cane poler
  • Birthday 03/14/1964

Converted

  • Gender
    male
  • Bio
  • Occupation
    marine tech
  • Interests
    fishing !
  • Location
    daytona beach fl
  • Full Name
    jimmy
  1. Ideas,how to rebuild a 71 bonefisher

    cut ! you're going to need a diamond blade on an angle grinder. transom - "tap test" use a small ball peen hammer,tap on the transom.when you tap the transom,you should hear a sharp distinct tone,if you hear a dull thud,that means delamination.any problems,mean replacement/recore deck: walking on it,any portions feel "soft" ? any soft areas,that means a deck replacement.cutting the deck around the perimeter,for removal.you're able to check condition of the stringers... composites are the way to go,however composites require a specific technique to hold fasteners - be aware of that !
  2. 2000 17' M/A I found one to buy, any thoughts?

    if you're asking about the hull itself: a good general check out would include a look over of the fuel system - my experience,fuel systems are the most overlooked maintenance item ! check the hoses and the fuel lines - pay attention to see if the antisiphon valve has been removed...ALWAYS check for a static ground@the filler cap other hosing concerns: pay attention to all the hosing - livewell and bilge hosing too.bilge hosing,the cheap plastic corrugated hosing ? that spells big trouble ! cheap low quality hosing on livewell is another potential disaster area double clamping is what you want to see ! pay specific attention to all the livewell fittings ! look for proper sealing - and make sure they're tight and not cracked.many leaking livewell fittings/systems have sunk many boats !! you need to pay attention to the wiring - as I've previously stated,wiring is another system that often has problems.little things tell a lot - wing nuts on battery terminals - connectors,cheap home depot unsealed connectors,wiring that appears to be a balled up rat's nest - these are things that spell problems !cheap automotive copper wire,this will be more prone to corrosion - believe it or not,most mfg's do not use a tinned marine grade wire.tinned marine grade wire,a finer stand,and it will appear to be silver,when stripped. fibergl*** cracking/spider webbing: large areas of what appears to be a spider web - thee usually signify impact - the underlying fibergl*** has "flexed" and the gel coat shows it - this may or may not be trouble large cracking areas,around a radius - signifies flexing - not a good thing...cracking around transom...a small ball peen hammer,a "sharp" ear and a good working moisture meter - these will help - composite materials will not rot - they can and will delaminate.tapping around the transom - a sharp distinct noise is heard - a dull thud,that's trouble ! inspecting around any and all thru hulls - inspect for proper installation,sealing and backing blocks deck - areas where you feel a "give",that's trouble! deck - as in cockpit deck.upper decking,forward casting deck,gunnels - pay attention to these - often times mfg's don't use the best attachment methods - caps can flex and leak water @ the hull to deck joint... composites require a specific technique,to provide a secure mounting point for fasteners.pay attention to anything mounted anywhere ! specifically any cored areas,deck,cap,etc - these are a point that can become a big problem - look for loose mounting screws - bear in mind,a larger screw won't repair this,nor will attempting to fill the hole with marine tex... overlooked points are the transducer mounting point on the transom,and the mounting bolts on the motor - both need to be sealed properly - that means 3 m 5200 - not silicone.inexperienced individuals will believe 3m 5200 is a permenant product - that's NOT true...garboard plugs and splashwell drains - these can also be a problem - the bronze tubes,these will crack and corrode away,the plastic ones crack.garboard plugs can become loose,at the mounting point on the transom - screws can and will corrode away... a "trained" eye will pick up on things just about every one else misses - remember that...there's no substitute for experience....
  3. 2000 17' M/A I found one to buy, any thoughts?

    on the lower unit - I agree - attempting to change someone's lower unit lube is kinda pushing the limit. any water in the oil will be apparent,when the screw is cracked loose a little...
  4. 2000 17' M/A I found one to buy, any thoughts?

    besides a general check out on the systems on the boat - you want to pay attention to the wiring and anything added to the boat - GPS,rod holders,etc - pay attention to all this.older boats often have problems with electrical systems - things are added and deleted.owners often use "interesting" ways to wire equipment,these interesting ways usually lead to big problems down the road. hydraulic steering systems - pay attention to the cylinder seals - look on the boat for the tell tale stains,from hydraulic oil.these can't always be resealed - the piston can be damaged,resulting in a damaged seal,shortly after resealing.these systems will always have a small amount of play. run that motor to bring it to temp - listen to it,pay attention to how it started... compression test - you're looking for uniformity - you want to see all cylinders in the same number specs will not mean anything - uniformity does... lower unit check ! and pull the prop ! pay attention to the motor - look at it ! look for signs of salt residue,residue around cylinder heads / thermostat housings/exhaust look for signs of corrosion and rust - if the motor's a mess under the bucket - it hasn't been well take care of... look for oil containers - see what kind of oil he's been using - cheap,low quality oil says a lot ! for get the whole ethanol / non ethanol fuel thing - seriously,it's time to let all that go... you want a water test ! you want to run that motor @ full throttle and see what it turns for RPM - doesn't turn full rated RPM - DON'T BUY IT ! water tests tell all - without one,you've no clue how that motor runs and operates. you could run it on the hose,do a compression test,buy it...leave with it,next day you're out running around and discover it overheats,only when the boat is on plane... last point - if you're asking what to look for,that shows you may not be very experienced a good direction for you to take may be to find a qualified individual / shop to check out the motor and the systems on the boat for you.try and avoid the know it all neighbor,that often times spells big trouble - I've witnessed that quaite a few times,over the years I've owned/operated my repair shop...
  5. MA fuel tank longevity

    fuel systems are,in my experience,the most overlooked maintenance item on a boat. most owners believe the hosing - fill/vent/feed hosing,will last indefinatley.manufactures also believe this - some manufactures build a boat that it's impossible to replace ANY hosing on the fuel system,without cutting decking... very few people take a proactive approach when it comes to this."wait till it's a problem" seems like the normal thing... the numbers I gave - as far as life expectancy,they're applicable to a saltwater environment... poly tanks are not immune to problems - I've seen these crack and fail
  6. Anti syphon valve

    I am not sure what the pickup tube is on my current boat is but my last Hewes was not aluminium. the tube - the tube may be plastic - the end piece,the portion that threads into the tank - that piece is aluminum...
  7. Anti syphon valve

    the pickup tube - it's aluminum,yes ? the antisiphon valve you removed,it was aluminum,yes ? there's a reason for that - galvanic reaction...put the correct fitting back in. the antisiphon valve is in there for a reason.if the fuel line to the motor fails - in any way,primer ball,etc - the tank will dump,via the siphon action,when that valve is removed - you really want that ?
  8. MA fuel tank longevity

    I've done a few fuel systems in contenders - MAJOR job,when the boat's equipped with aux tanks.those boats are known for tank failures - tanks are foamed in place... aluminum tanks - if the tank is foamed into place - 10yrs,is the expected life span.tanks with an installation allowing air to circulate around/underneath the tank,these will get longer life. tanks,aluminum tanks,that are protected with a good epoxy coating - that coating put on correctly,scuff sanded,chemically etch primed,and coated to the needed thickness - these tanks will go the long haul ! basically,it's dependent upon the installation... I've had boats,in my shop,requiring a few systems replacement,that were as new as 7yrs old - tank was foamed in place and corroded through in a few spots. had one 4 yrs old too - manufacture left screws in the tanks cell area - you can guess the rest...
  9. learned 1 lesson, need help on the 2nd

    flipping the switch: when you flip that emergency switch - it grounds the blue wire to the pump - making the pump run.if the pump runs and transfers oil to the engine tank,the pump is good... usually,when this problem is encountered,it's a bad float switch. the filter wouldn't be a problem,if the oil flows,when the switch is flipped... on occasion - the small ribbon style harness,comming from the motor to the remote oil tank - these can break @ the motor connection point,under the bracket holding the harness in place... dumb question : does the trim indicator work ?
  10. Refinishing deck

    the best approach,in my experienced opinion: do the gl*** work - grind the diamond pattern out - prime it all in a good 2 part epoxy primer - roll is out in awlgrip - use griptex and it's done ! looks better than new and it's easy to clean,as well as durable...
  11. 2015 22 Tournament (gel coat cracks)

    if those areas are in a spider web pattern - near a radius,or point of impact,such as railings,cleats,or on the side of the hull - these can be an indication of problems... small lines,or cracks are really pretty normal - attempting to repair them,usually they return in short order.fibergl*** can flex,gel coat can't,hence the craze or crack... this gentleman is stating the area has "moved" - doors are sticking " In April 2015 purchased a Brand New Pathfinder 22 Tournament, around June I started noticing cracks in gel coat all along where the gunnels meet the floor and along the floor where the rear deck meet. Around the same time noticiced rear deck release well door and rear storage / pump access / fuel filter compartment door will not close straight, like they are warped. When standing on rear deck and stepping on these hatch doors they make all kinds of noise (squeaks" this could be an indication of a problem...
  12. OT : fishing bachelor party ideas

    yankee capts - take a few day trip to pulley ridge !
  13. Yamaha T&T Overhaul

    that's antifouling paint on those aluminum parts - that's a copper based paint.copper and aluminum will react in sea water - that causes a galvanic reaction - that white powder,it's aluminum oxide,the end result of corroded aluminum remove that antifouling paint most people from the north east,we "slip" our boats,meaning,they stay in the water from usually april,thru to December - antifouling paint is required i'm currently searching for a slip for my big boat,i'm amazed at what people think is "expensive" - the slip in jersey cost me $3,200 april to November,much cheaper in florida the convienience of having your boat in the water is huge - hop in and go !
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